Wheel lug nut torque?

I torque mine to 95 ft. lbs with a torque wrench. Hopefully the shop will use a torque wrench also. If they use an air wrench you will never get the tires off if needed on the road.

Lynnmor wrote:
More good information for those that don't torque their nuts:

Here

I was with you and the author until I read this about paint on the lug studs: "When you try to remove the nut over this paint, the nut will bind up. By forcing through the paint, you will likely damage or destroy the threads in the nut or on the stud. Either way, the end result may be that the wheel separates itself from the hub and the RV comes crashing to the ground."
That is written by someone with no practical knowledge of threaded fasteners.

westend wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:
More good information for those that don't torque their nuts:

Here

I was with you and the author until I read this about paint on the lug studs: "When you try to remove the nut over this paint, the nut will bind up. By forcing through the paint, you will likely damage or destroy the threads in the nut or on the stud. Either way, the end result may be that the wheel separates itself from the hub and the RV comes crashing to the ground."
That is written by someone with no practical knowledge of threaded fasteners.

I fail to see the problem here. If a stud is painted and an attempt to remove the lug nut over the hardened paint causes the nut to bind, the trailer should be out of service till it is repaired. The author just didn't make it clear that a loosened nut binding on the paint might fool someone into thinking that the wheel is still tight. Anyone that thinks that it is a OK to paint fasteners is the one with no practical knowledge.

Lynnmor wrote:

westend wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:
More good information for those that don't torque their nuts:

Here

I was with you and the author until I read this about paint on the lug studs: "When you try to remove the nut over this paint, the nut will bind up. By forcing through the paint, you will likely damage or destroy the threads in the nut or on the stud. Either way, the end result may be that the wheel separates itself from the hub and the RV comes crashing to the ground."
That is written by someone with no practical knowledge of threaded fasteners.

I fail to see the problem here. If a stud is painted and an attempt to remove the lug nut over the hardened paint causes the nut to bind, the trailer should be out of service till it is repaired. The author just didn't make it clear that a loosened nut binding on the paint might fool someone into thinking that the wheel is still tight. Anyone that thinks that it is a OK to paint fasteners is the one with no practical knowledge.

The quote from the article above was a warning that if a user loosened a lug nut from a stud that had a bit of paint on the end, the trailer would crash to the ground because of a destroyed nut or stud. This implies that turning a nut over paint on threads destroys either beyond use. In the real world, that nut will be removed from the stud and tightened when the wheel is put back into service. That is when, the author maintains, calamity is sure to happen.

Neither the author, yourself, nor I advocated painting fasteners. It is sometimes a pain to get them apart. To say that a small amount of paint on the end from painting the wheels will certainly destroy the nut or stud is not correct.

I'm not going to argue the point. I've wrenched off more fasteners that have been painted than most folks on this Forum will look at in a lifetime. I can count on one hand the nuts that have been destroyed in the process. If paint becomes an issue, a wire brush and a spritz of lubricant will work to solve the problem. If a user wants to spray their wheels, put a dab of grease on the studs. I only mention it so that other members, new to maintaining wheels, don't think that a painted wheel stud is going to cause a calamity.

Another article from Mr Caper: How to install a brake controller with push button momentary switch after frying wire during the installation. The guy is priceless.

I've always thought that a bolt, nut and mating surface need to be pristine for the the proper clamping force to be created with a measured torque.

The same torque can cause different bolt tension when things vary.

Doubt the paint is an immediate doomsday.
However I agree due caution should be used when removing a nut when the stud is contaminated with paint or rust etc.

I have my torque wrench in my trailer at all times... That's where it stays , if I need it at home , I just get it from the trailer..

I never had a wheel crack due to a yahoo with an impact gun , but I have had several "Oh ****" moments on the road that I did not think I would be able to remove the lug due to over tightening . .

The proper way is with a torque wrench, also for a 5 Lug circle you tighten every other one (1,3,5,2,4) not 1,2,3,4,5.

For other size circles you will have to work it out.. But the idea is to tighten one then the one across from it, then go back and forth.

(NOTE: many ower's manuals are more complex on the 5 bolt but I like to just do every other one Easiest pattern in the world to remember).