Which battery isolator relay

Thanks, I'll replace the switch.

If you decide to use the starter relay, Make sure that it is for 12 V. Some ford relays operate on 9v and won't last long on 12v.

Jim

I have Jamboree same year - the emergency start switch is on the thin one on right and should release when you let go. When depressed you should hear the solenoid engage.

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the help. I'll go for a 200amp continuous relay. This one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CEBXRS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think my RV emergency start switch was modified at some point, because now it is a three state rocker switch. It just stays in what ever position you put it, and the two lower positions seems to be the same. Should have been a two state momentary rocker switch, which pops back to off position when released, right?



-Guy

buzzard616 wrote:
Most OEM manufacturers use a simple starter relay like this one . You can get one at an auto wrecker for even less. They're rated for enough amperage to start a cold car and as for reliability they usually last the life of the vehicle.Stu

Starter relays are NOT continuous duty and are NOT used by OEM coach manufacturers.

I think Kevin has it right. I had to replace the solenoid on my previous Class A. Details & pics at this link: http://2manytoyz.com/bcc.html

Make sure you replace it with a solenoid rated for continuous duty.

Here's the exact solenoid I used: http://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-24059-Continuous-Solenoid/dp/B000Y82X4E

The two switches you see have nothing to do with your problem. The one on the left is the battery disconnect switch - it simply takes the coach battery off line and is controlled by an battery disconnect intellitec relay located in the engine compartment. The switch on the right is for emergency start.

The battery isolator solenoid your looking for probably looks like this - http://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-7000-Terminal-Battery-Isolator/dp/B0002UHVYQ - mine is located high up on fire wall in engine compartment.

The battery isolator solenoid separates the coach and chassis batteries so you don't accidentally drain your chassis battery. When you turn the ignition key the solenoid is energized allowing the batteries to connect and the alternator to charge both batteries. They tend to stick on occasion - sometimes rapping with hammer is enough to jar loose - replacements are not expensive and available at any auto parts house.

The battery isolator is the same solenoid that is used for the emergency start feature. However since this feature is used when the chassis battery is dead the emergency start switch uses power from the coach battery to energize the solenoid.

Most OEM manufacturers use a simple starter relay like this one . You can get one at an auto wrecker for even less. They're rated for enough amperage to start a cold car and as for reliability they usually last the life of the vehicle.


Stu

My local NAPA had a 100% duty cycle 200amp for $75 - I walked out quickly
Went to another local shop and they had the same one for $65 walked again
Look on line - Graingers and many other places have them (the exatc same device NAPA offered me) for $20 or thereabouts

As others stated
Continous duty aka 100% DC
200amp

If you can check the coil current - I have found the higher current comsumption the hotter they run some get really hot when activated for hours at a time

Make sure which ever one you get, that it is a continuous duty solenoid. I would spend the extra bucks and get a 200amp.