Lack of fuses are not a problem until the insulation is cut to the point that the bare wire under it can ground to a metal frame, or something.
Even with a short circuit, it will not mean the camper will burn to the ground, rather that 1 wire will overheat until either it melts the wire closer to the battery terminal, or the battery goes dead, or something like a vibration or perhaps turning a corner while driving opens the short circuit wiring to ground.
Anyway the Trojans can be at full charge, say at 2 PM or 3PM, and the controller can shut off say at 14.4 volts (I would set mine to 14.0 to avoid boiling off so much water) and the 160 watt panel can be connected to a switch. Should you be out sightseeing, and leave the 160 watt panel on, that is about 10 amps maximum at 16 volts, or enough amperage going into the panel at high noon with a 50C panel surface temp to overcharge the battery a tiny amount. IN reality at 3 pm, the panel might put out 7 amps into a 12 volt battery, but at 14.4 volts that amperage might drop to only 5 or 4 amps.
At 4 amps and even 15 volts, the 4 golf cart batteries will not really go to a higher voltage as they are overcharged, but rather will just start to overcharge, warm up, and boil off a lot of water.
In other words, the 160 watt panel at 3 pm to 7 pm in the middle of summer will not damage the battery if overcharging it by 3-10 amps per hour for that long of a time. In reality, between 3 pm and 7 pm, the 160 watt panel might return say 25 AH to the 440 amp hour battery bank, or less than 7%. . .
So while the RV is in storage, of course leave off the 160 watt panel. While not in storage, and out camping and using a minimum of about 100 AH daily, then turning on the 160 watt panel will add around 9 AH per hour between 10:30 and 2:30 daily, and taper up to that amperage early in the morning, and less as sunset gets closer!
Fred.
