Who is schooled in "Grease"? (Need some tough stuff)

The question you are asking is open ended. Depending on the application and environment there could be several different choices.
Amsoil makes good products, but they list 12 different types of grease
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/grease/

What is good for one application, may not be so good in another. Marine grease is water resistant, while an industrial grease may be thicker and more tacky.
I use the Amsoil Truck Chassis and Equipment grease for general chassis lubrication of my pickup and tractors.

Here is the only grease I would consider. Clicky

Most EP greases contain only moly this grease has moly and an extreme pressure additive that will beat the testing machine for EP ASTM tests. This is not found at the local box stores. If extreme pressure is what you are after no shelf brand out there will beat it.

Check out Schaeffers, they have been making lubricants longer than anybody in the US Grease
Contact them for your application

This is a great place to purchase Clicky

I have been using their products for several years, oils, greases and fuel additives successfully.

Fireup, I tried different lube's also and will be curious as to the end result of your quest. I was never successful in the long run.

Atwood made that assembly (they probably supplied the door also) and the long piece (brace) that slides through the compression was modified slightly at some point. I have a new one I never installed & it is different than the 2003 version. Perhaps to cure the snapping?

I should have the engineering drawing of it, I'll look when I return in a couple of days.

The semi-pointed rubbery looking piece mounts to the door frame with 2 screws. It acts as a guide for the "brace" which passes through it to the door jamb pivot which then has a pin to the door frame on the coach. It is almost impossible to see inside the door but if you have the 2 screws where the "brace" comes out you also have that guide.

I wonder if something like this UHMW (slippery plastic) tape applied to the sides of the extruded block the shoes slide in would help solve the clacking problem? I guess the real question would be what exactly is causing the shoes to come together strongly enough to clack. Apparently they're sticking somehow, and the sides of this block seem to be the most likely place to me, but I suppose it could also be the edges of the tongue piece that slides between the shoes or something else as well.

Try the silicone grease used on disk brake caliper mounting slide bolts. Kind of expensive and won't last forever, but a heck of a lot cleaner than the molybdenum greases.
Art.

hypoxia wrote:
HERE is a picture of the assembly I have that sounds like yours.

Hypoxia,
Most of the components in the picture you linked are exactly what I have. The large, semi-pointed black rubber looking piece, I'm not familiar with. But the machined aluminum block, that houses the two black plastic gliders and pressure springs, they're what makes the SNAP when the brace/limiter glides in between them and then they slam down on the thin part. While the design, in theory, is a fair one, if it were used on a much smaller scale. Say, a compartment door, that opened side-ways.

But, used in situation where it's trying to control an entry door that weighs most likely in excess of 100 lbs., AND IN THE WIND at that, is not to me, a very wise application. I'm not an engineer, built and fabbed up a few thousand things in my life but, no engineer.

Winne and Itasca used that mechanism for lots of coaches. I'm by far, not the only one who's had issues with it.

Anyway, I could go on and on about that poor design but, all I'm in need of is grease that will not slide out, squeeze out, push out, whatever you'd like to call it and, will have more of an effect on keeping the SNAP down to a minimum or, hopefully not noticeable at all. Thanks for responding here.
Scott

P.S. I want to thank ALL who've responded here. It's very much appreciated. I will check into all suggestions.
Scott

HERE is a picture of the assembly I have that sounds like yours.

Fireup, that sounds like the Atwood Door on my Revolution. Is there a plastic block at the end of the assembly that fits against the end of the door and two screws hold it in place?

In my case, the first problem I had was the plastic block broke. I replaced it but shortly after it would start snapping again. The screw holes had elongated from the movement. I decided to fix it for good and milled a piece of solid aluminum to replace that plastic piece. I drilled & tapped it for larger screws. Problem solved.

A whirlwind caught the door once & bent that stopping pin. The door glass hit the mirror and broke the outer pane.

We use a special grease for lubing the top of 5th wheels at work. It is the stickiest, nastiest grease I have ever used. The pail actually says 5th wheel grease.