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opnspaces's avatar
opnspaces
Navigator II
Dec 31, 2018

Why have I dealt with this charger for 13 years?

My 2005 Jayco has an IOTA 40 amp converter charger that has always struggled to charge the batteries while on generator. Well this weekend I finally got curious enough to put a meter on it. While I did record the charging voltage every 10 minutes, there really wasn't much change. Here's a condensed view of my chart.

  • 9:00 am 11.74v
  • 9:10 am 13.37v
  • 9:30am 13.77v it never got higher than 13.77
  • 9:40 am 13.47v
  • 12:45 am 13.30v


I am in the desert with no neighbors so I gave up recording at this point and just let the generator run all day.

the next day I did two things.
  1. I used the super expensive fuel inefficient charger (the truck and jumper cables) to make sure I would have heat for sleeping
  2. I decided enough is enough I'm going to get a replacement charger.


I do plan to call Randy at Best Converter, but figured I'd ask some opinions from all of you as you hopefully have no vested interest in the converter I ultimately decide on.

Should I go with a replacement IOTA, or a progressive dynamics, or a boondocker or? How many charge amps? I'm running a Honda EU2000i to the shore power cord.
Thanks

Edit because I forgot important information.
I'm running two 6volt Costco batteries.
I checked multiple times and there is no port for the IQ4 charge controller
  • You can leave the converter as is for when on shore power and use a better one for fast charging when off grid this way:

  • Chakara wrote:
    I'm gonna throw this out there. I don't know the layout of your Jayco but on my old Starcraft the batteries were on the front tongue and the converter was in the rear kitchen. 30' of 8 gauge wire between the 2 was causing a large amount of resistive voltage loss and my tongue batteries NEVER could get a full charge through no fault of the converter.

    From the pictures it looks like your converter is probably under the fridge about 3/4 of the way back from the tongue - - so you could have a similar bad factory design as I had.

    For me, moving the converter was the easiest solution so I could get some heavy gauge wire from the converter to the batteries. I put it in the front storage compartment and solved the problem.

    Just throwing this out there as a converter MAY not solve the issue....

    -Chak


    You are correct, the converter is 3/4 of the way back under the refrigerator which would be roughly 20 feet from the batteries. Since it's a one piece breaker box, converter charger I'm guessing I would still need to buy a new converter and split it out from the breaker box whether I moved it up front or left it where the original is.
  • I have an IOTA-55 deck mount converter that's 12 years old and has been in 3 trailers I've had. It makes my Honda 2000 work when the dual GC batteries are depleted but the genny never trips out. Bulk mode is 14.8V, better than the stock WFCO.
  • I'm gonna throw this out there. I don't know the layout of your Jayco but on my old Starcraft the batteries were on the front tongue and the converter was in the rear kitchen. 30' of 8 gauge wire between the 2 was causing a large amount of resistive voltage loss and my tongue batteries NEVER could get a full charge through no fault of the converter.

    From the pictures it looks like your converter is probably under the fridge about 3/4 of the way back from the tongue - - so you could have a similar bad factory design as I had.

    For me, moving the converter was the easiest solution so I could get some heavy gauge wire from the converter to the batteries. I put it in the front storage compartment and solved the problem.

    Just throwing this out there as a converter MAY not solve the issue....

    -Chak
  • Sorry forgot that important part. I'm running two 6v golf carts from Costco
  • First check to see if your Iota has the jack fitting. Some Jaycos back then did not have the Iota with that fitting. If yours does, just get an IQ4 and plug it in.

    If no idea what that is all about, read the Iota website.

    If no jack fitting, you can replace the converter with one that does 14.x for a time before dropping to 13.6

    A 2000w gen will run a 55 amp converter at 14.x, so stick with 55 or less. Might run a 60.

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