Why won't 2000w inverter run 900w microwave?
I bought a 2000w Nature Power pure sine inverter from camping world. I had my local rv dealer install the inverter (and a power tongue jack) that I bought a CW. It was $200 in parts and $500 in ...
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Lots of curious responses here!...I run a Panasonic M/W off two 4yr old 6v Interstate golf cart batteries for short periods quite often (up to 5min at a time; sometimes repeatedly for potatoes), so YES it CAN be done but your system needs to be optimal to do this.
First off, your 900w your M/W is likely rated at it's 'RF' watts, not the true (gross) wattage which is usually 200-300w higher than RF. Thus, M/W's need to be 'right sized' to any given inverter.
Second, understand that a M/W will have a much higher initial surge demand (i.e inductive) than the ovens 'rated' watts, that may last for several seemingly very loooong seconds. This surge though brief, can often be twice as much as the ovens 'advertised' watts rating and may cause havoc on a particular inverter.
Third, Though your inverter is rated at 2000w, this in and of itself only tells part of the story, as what's equally important is your inverters surge rating and it's time duration, this sometimes critical with inductive bearing loads. Thus, not all 2000w inverters are created equal (nor are cost). If your inverter specs do not list a surge rating, it is likely designed more for non-inductive (resistance/electronics) type loads.
Fourth, too small of battery cable size or too long of cables, can greatly hinder (starve) any inverter, triggering a low voltage alarm. Thus with battery cables, LARGER is waaay better...
Fifth, as another poster well said, your inverter should only be powering the M/W and not other appliances at the same time.
I'm running 4 ought AWG cables (7' combined + & - cable length run), a 2000w inverter with a 4,500w surge rating and M/W is rated at 1,225 GROSS watts.
Hope this helps,
3 tons
First off, your 900w your M/W is likely rated at it's 'RF' watts, not the true (gross) wattage which is usually 200-300w higher than RF. Thus, M/W's need to be 'right sized' to any given inverter.
Second, understand that a M/W will have a much higher initial surge demand (i.e inductive) than the ovens 'rated' watts, that may last for several seemingly very loooong seconds. This surge though brief, can often be twice as much as the ovens 'advertised' watts rating and may cause havoc on a particular inverter.
Third, Though your inverter is rated at 2000w, this in and of itself only tells part of the story, as what's equally important is your inverters surge rating and it's time duration, this sometimes critical with inductive bearing loads. Thus, not all 2000w inverters are created equal (nor are cost). If your inverter specs do not list a surge rating, it is likely designed more for non-inductive (resistance/electronics) type loads.
Fourth, too small of battery cable size or too long of cables, can greatly hinder (starve) any inverter, triggering a low voltage alarm. Thus with battery cables, LARGER is waaay better...
Fifth, as another poster well said, your inverter should only be powering the M/W and not other appliances at the same time.
I'm running 4 ought AWG cables (7' combined + & - cable length run), a 2000w inverter with a 4,500w surge rating and M/W is rated at 1,225 GROSS watts.
Hope this helps,
3 tons
