Forum Discussion
wa8yxm
Dec 20, 2018Explorer III
WHat I am about to say applies to both Gas and electric ovens. (part 1)
The main burner (heat element on an electric) does not remain on full time. It cycles on and off.. on a gas oven the pilot remains on so it can re-light the main (Why it is called a pilot) but the main burner/heat element will shut off and come back on as needed.
This assumes proper operation
on an RV oven.. USE A Thermomemter to check cause atwood thermostats are the most inaccurate devices I've evern seen (mine is 50 degrees off)
Page 2:
is it possible to design a proportional Valve/switch so that the main burner is "Turned down" but for gas it is very costly. Very Very costly.
For electric it would only cost a few dollars per oven. but .. why? You don't need 1/2 of one degree or tighter tolerance.
For some electronic applications 1 degree difference can be "Big" and that is about the only place they do the tight control stuff.
The main burner (heat element on an electric) does not remain on full time. It cycles on and off.. on a gas oven the pilot remains on so it can re-light the main (Why it is called a pilot) but the main burner/heat element will shut off and come back on as needed.
This assumes proper operation
on an RV oven.. USE A Thermomemter to check cause atwood thermostats are the most inaccurate devices I've evern seen (mine is 50 degrees off)
Page 2:
is it possible to design a proportional Valve/switch so that the main burner is "Turned down" but for gas it is very costly. Very Very costly.
For electric it would only cost a few dollars per oven. but .. why? You don't need 1/2 of one degree or tighter tolerance.
For some electronic applications 1 degree difference can be "Big" and that is about the only place they do the tight control stuff.
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