Winter RVing in a Class C
We live near a ski mountain and want to camp with our 23' Class C on weekends at the mountain. So, how do I eep things from freezing both while camping and while stored ( outdoor covered - with powe...
Forum Discussion
If you have a "winter ready" RV, use the furnace. Typically it has a little duct that goes into the (enclosed) compartment where the water tanks are to keep them above freezing. If the tanks and drain valves are exposed rather than enclosed, you more or less can't use the RV plumbing systems when it's below freezing. (Sufficient anti-freezing chemicals of some sort could keep it working if it doesn't get too cold.)
A 12V heater is entirely impractical for keeping the RV from freezing. One pound of propane has the same amount of energy as about 500 amp-hours at 12V—specifically, 21600 btu or 6.33 kwh. Put another way, a pair of golf cart batteries stores about the same amount of usable energy as 4 ounces (weight, not fluid ounces) of propane. A typical RV furnace might be around 25000 btu/hr, for comparison, and often needs to work pretty hard in freezing temperatures to keep the temperature inside reasonable. 120V electric heaters (with a generator) might be an option if it's not too cold, though you still need to make sure the heat gets around the tanks.
Most RVs aren't really designed for subzero use, even if they are built to withstand freezing temperatures. There's not a whole lot of insulation, and often single pane windows throughout, and thin plastic skylights, and so forth. The cab of a class C is not very well insulated at all—it's like a car in construction. Blocking it off with a heavy curtain or similar can help keep the rest of the unit warmer while parked.
Personally, I don't drive my class C durning the winter due to the salt on the roads and the corrosion it causes. It's a tradeoff, of course; the RV should last longer, but I don't get to enjoy it during several months of the year.
A 12V heater is entirely impractical for keeping the RV from freezing. One pound of propane has the same amount of energy as about 500 amp-hours at 12V—specifically, 21600 btu or 6.33 kwh. Put another way, a pair of golf cart batteries stores about the same amount of usable energy as 4 ounces (weight, not fluid ounces) of propane. A typical RV furnace might be around 25000 btu/hr, for comparison, and often needs to work pretty hard in freezing temperatures to keep the temperature inside reasonable. 120V electric heaters (with a generator) might be an option if it's not too cold, though you still need to make sure the heat gets around the tanks.
Most RVs aren't really designed for subzero use, even if they are built to withstand freezing temperatures. There's not a whole lot of insulation, and often single pane windows throughout, and thin plastic skylights, and so forth. The cab of a class C is not very well insulated at all—it's like a car in construction. Blocking it off with a heavy curtain or similar can help keep the rest of the unit warmer while parked.
Personally, I don't drive my class C durning the winter due to the salt on the roads and the corrosion it causes. It's a tradeoff, of course; the RV should last longer, but I don't get to enjoy it during several months of the year.
