Winterization Drain Valve Residential Fridge Itasca Ellipse

Teeshot1939 wrote:
Thanks for the replies...especially Solo for taking the time. I am also referring to a 2011 Itasca Ellipse 42QD. Yes I am referring to the lines behind the exterior access panel. I've reread the instructions again and I don't see where it says to disconnect the line from the icemaker to the valve. Step 1 says shut off water supply in the galley...I get that. Then it says to disconnect the water supply. If you have already shut off the supply line why do you need to disconnect it at the Winterization valve? How can you flush the supply line with antifreeze if you shut off the supply line back in step #1? Could you explain the valve positions? Which lines are active or open when valve is ON and which are active or open when valve is CLOSED? I appreciate your patience, experience and knowledge.

First of all, don't hesitate to message me on this and I'll see if I can step you through some of your questions and how I winterize our 42QD.

Here is how I understand Winnebagos/Itascas procedure. By disconnecting the supply line at the winterization valve, this is what is suggested by Maytag in their manual on leaving the fridge in possible freezing temps so I will assume that Winnebago used that step to insure complying with the manufacturer's recommendation. Some of the water will drain from the fridge-not much however in my opinion-when the supply line is shut off at the galley and the winterizing valve turned in the open/drain position. Winnebago is not suggesting pushing antifreeze through the fridge lines at all so that is why they say to shut the supply off at the galley valve and then drain what you can with the winterization valve in the down position.

As I mentioned, I still do not like how much water is left in the fridge and lines by doing it this way so that is why I use compressed air and antifreeze. I do know that a local Winnebago dealer pushes antifreeze through the fridge on the 42QD (not the filter however) and that is what I choose to do too. By the way, if you are not comfortable winterizing your 42QD yourself, the Winnebago dealer in our area will do everything on this coach for $142 in a fall special right now. Perhaps someone in your area would do the same.

If you would like to know specifics on what I do, drop me a note and I'll see if I can help. I'm not particularly fond of the "pink stuff" in my water lines but it's easy to flush in the spring and besides, I just have to stop and think about all of the water system and appliances I might destroy if I get freeze damage.

Thanks for the replies...especially Solo for taking the time. I am also referring to a 2011 Itasca Ellipse 42QD. Yes I am referring to the lines behind the exterior access panel. I've reread the instructions again and I don't see where it says to disconnect the line from the icemaker to the valve. Step 1 says shut off water supply in the galley...I get that. Then it says to disconnect the water supply. If you have already shut off the supply line why do you need to disconnect it at the Winterization valve? How can you flush the supply line with antifreeze if you shut off the supply line back in step #1? Could you explain the valve positions? Which lines are active or open when valve is ON and which are active or open when valve is CLOSED? I appreciate your patience, experience and knowledge.

Teeshot1939 wrote:

Please explain the plumbing...where the 3 lines lead and what they are for...thanks.

You didn't mention what year/model of Ellipse you have or what model the fridge was but, since we own a 2011 Ellipse, perhaps I can offer some insight. The winterization procedure you have listed is directly out of our manual too so your procedure is identical to ours. Are you asking about the lines behind the fridge accessible through the outside door? If so, from the valve, one leads to the icemaker/water dispenser, one is the supply line coming from the under sink water filter in the galley and the other one leads directly down where it goes through the floor and out below the slideout as a drain to the outside.

The procedure Winnebago is explaining is for the "no pink" through the ice maker method. It suggests disconnecting the line from the ice maker to the valve behind the fridge and then flushing the supply lines with antifreeze but not pushing antifreeze through the icemaker.

I am still a bit paranoid with this technique so I remove the fridge water filter and install the bypass (essentially you doing the same thing with the other two filters too-the whole house filter and the under sink in the galley filter according to our instructions in the manual). I then apply regulated and filtered 45psi compressed air to the water inlet hose. We have the optional powered hose reel so I attach the air here with an adapter and then also alternate to the inlet directly above the reel to make sure that all water has been moved on through. I then operate EVERYTHING. Faucets, toilets, dishwasher, water dispensers, washer, etc. Don't forget the outside shower valve too. I then use the procedure Winnebago describes for using RV antifreeze and perform all of the individual appliance and faucet procedures, tank dumping and so forth. I do push antifreeze through the fridge and icemaker just to be certain by operating both.


The Ellipse and it's twin sister coach the Tour, have a very expensive to replace onboard water system with the AquaHot and I feel that a little bit extra caution on my part is worth it.

The easiest method is for us to simply head south!

Did this answer your question?

The problem with residential refrigerators is that no thought whatsoever went into the possibility it would be stored in freezing conditions. RV fridges are made with access to the icemaker line so it can be taken loose and drained. About your only hope with a residential is to do the pump-the-antifreeze process and make sure you get pink to the ice maker. All the icemaker plumbing is built inside the fridge shell and not accessible even if the fridge could be easily slid out somehow. (If you are getting pink ice, the anti-freeze isn't working!!)

Just go with the instructions unless you are sure of what you are doing. I would blow out the lines but I am not you. You will most likely flush all the lines in the spring anway. If unsure your dealer will be more than willing to winterize for you $$$. Truth is I am never anywhere where winterizing is necessary.

The instructions are saying that you need to pump RV anti-freeze through all of the lines and should appear in the ice maker compartment itself while making ice. Once your ice is pink and won't freeze you have completed the process. IMHO, a better option is to blow out all of the line including the ice maker with an air compressor set at about 50 psi.