ktmrfs wrote:
smkettner wrote:
I would love for BFL13 to do an empirical test to quantify that 14 vs 10 loss.
For BFL's case run =30ft Imp=7.7A
for #10 cable power loss = 3.6W = about 0.27A at the output under max power. (0.06ohms x 7.7x7.7)
for #14 same conditions, power loss = 9 watts, about .75A under max conditions. (0.15ohms x 7.7x7.7) Note that #10 to #14 more than doubles the resistance. each increase/decrease by 3 wire sizes doubles or halves the resistance.
so depends on if 3/4 A is signficant to you.
How does this "theoretical" calculation compare to real world. Using the same method I calculated the power loss in output amps for my 160W panels connected in parallel vs. series for a 100ft run to the portable panels. Wire is #10 on one side #7 on the other side. (how?? well it is 30A Rv cord with one side being 2 #10's the other side being 1 #10 for calculations I used 150ft of #10 for total wire length)
doing the calculations power loss in a parallel connection was 12W about 1A. In a series connection power loss was calculated to be 3W or about 1/4 amp.
so.... last time I was out batteries near 50% SOC, using the trimetric in bright sun had them in parallel and looked at battery charging current, then switched to series and looked at battery charging current. Guess what, in series the current went up by real close to 3/4A. controller is a sunsaver 15 MPPT controller
So again how important is another 3/4A to you? Only you can decide.
For me, I don't have enough solar to ever get beyond bulk charging mode. 500AH of battery (4 T-125's) , only 160 W of solar. In fact I used the SW for the sunsaver to modify the charge profile to only use bulk and equalize mode and don't let bulk mode time out. So the "extra" 3/4 A or so most of the day is an extra 3/4A. It all helps.
In mid summer with sun all day I can recover 80-90% of a days power use. In the fall or under less sunny conditions (most common in our part of oregon) it's less. My goal is to maximize the days between firing up the generator.
Having 160W of solar and cost of your MPPT versus having 200 watts of 12v solar panel, and a 20 amp PWM by Morningstar, and 10 gauge wire. What is the gain or loss in Amps, and what is the cost difference?
This is assuming space is not at the limit currently, and you aren't running 10 ga over a 30 foot run from panel to controller, to batteries.
Can we assume $1.00 a watt per panel? One can spend a little more on watts and 12V panels that are larger, and will it offset the price of a Morningstar MPPT -15L at $230 plus shipping, vs a Morningstar PWM Sunsaver SSL 20L at $77.... well unless roof space is at a premium, the slightly more watt and larger panels, in a 2 panel application with PWM will be more cost effective, and produce more amps, will it not?
In this case, with the bigger panels, you will at the start end up with 2.4 or more Amps than with your 160W panels, that you can take the .75 Amp loss from. Or am I missing something?
Seems like panels, to me, are like engines, can't replace displacement, need more power go up in size.
Understand, I am dealing with small potatoes real estate with a travel trailer compared to a motor home crowd type of set up. Guess I just prefer the KISS. Take my losses with PWM and upsize a bit with more watts per 12V panel, and call it good. Or find a PWM that is tweekable adjustable also via computer that you can program the bulk charge feature on it also, if you are under on amp hours to the size of your usage on the battery system and sit in bulk for what you can also, instead of timed out.