Due to real life events (layoffs, friends and relatives in ICU) , I have not had time last year to do the usual upkeep on things as I should normally.Pulled out the generator, starts at full choke after a number of pulls, and surges at no load. Add 750 watts... still surges. Add 1500 watts, smooths out, and after 2-3 hours, when the load is removed, the generator works fine (econ switch on or off.)Had a friend of mine rebuild the carburetor. Not sure how thorough a job he did, though. Since I started a new job, and in the process of cleaning a lot of stuff out, (not to mention a renaissance faire), I don't have the time and table space to rebuild the thing myself, which is why I'd just buy a replacement, Onan-style, rather than try a rebuild.So, before I pay the three C-notes to buy a new carb assembly, is it worth tossing four ounces of Seafoam in the tank with a gallon of gas, and letting it run, or would that just waste fuel?

You have to be careful with Seafoam as it can wash down the cylinders if you use to much.Personally I would just pull the carb off and clean it really well. Jets are likely clogged. Shouldn't need a rebuild or any parts

N-Trouble wrote:You have to be careful with Seafoam as it can wash down the cylinders if you use to much.Personally I would just pull the carb off and clean it really well. Jets are likely clogged. Shouldn't need a rebuild or any partsX2 but I've never had a cylinder problem adding Seafoam to the gas.

mlts22 wrote:So, before I pay the three C-notes to buy a new carb assembly, is it worth tossing four ounces of Seafoam in the tank with a gallon of gas, and letting it run, or would that just waste fuel?Yes and no.Seafoam is overpriced for what it is.Berrymans B12 Chemtool is a MUCH better cleaner.Use two ounces per gallon of fuel and let it run only long enough to be sure the mix gets into the carb, maybe 30 minutes. Then let it sit at least overnight. If the problem really is deposits in the carb, that should fix you right up. If the tank wasn't full when you started, fill it up after running.

Overpriced as it may be, it's 2.95C-notes cheaper than a rebuild. I haven't seen any reviews on Chemtool here but there are LOTS of reviews of SeaFoam including me. I'm not sure why you wouldn't give it a shot. personally I go with what I know works.PS- Ive also not heard any issues with cylinder washdown. Its a solvent just like any other. Use it according to directions and this wont be an issue.

I'd try Seafoam. You can buy carbs on EBay under $200.

Worth seafoaming a Yammy 3000 iSE before replacing carb?

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Jan 20, 2016
Berrymans B12 Chemtool. The can looks like SeaFoam can.
That is usually the only thing that "big box" stores carry.

Also available in a spray but that's for a slightly different use than the can of stuff that mixes with the gas.
mlts22
Explorer
Jan 20, 2016
Sam Spade wrote:
Berrymans B12 Chemtool. The can looks like SeaFoam can.
That is usually the only thing that "big box" stores carry.

Also available in a spray but that's for a slightly different use than the can of stuff that mixes with the gas.

Thanks. That is what I bought. I'll know this Friday if that 15 ounce can lives up to its reputation or not.
SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Jan 21, 2016
mlts22 wrote:
Thanks for the recommendations. I normally use Star-Tron for stabilizer, which has worked extremely well. I'll try B12 and GumOut and hope it can do the job, as it will save me a good chunk of change.

Any other products worth trying? The goal is to get it back to where it starts with one pull, and doesn't act like a teenager in a sports car, revving the gas at a light.

I started using a product called Archoil AR6200 in my truck's diesel fuel for cleaner burning & fuel mileage. Since I had it and it is good for gas as well, I tried it with a generator that would only run smooth at partial choke (Seafoam didn't fix it) and the generator ran smooth again. I then tried it on my 2002 Subaru with a rough idle and off idle bog and it cured that and improved fuel mileage. Since AR6200 is also a fuel stabilizer, I just add it to my fuel storage containers and all my gas powered tools get the benefit.
AR6200 is available from only a few retailers, but online from Archoil.com and Amazon.
mlts22
Explorer
Jan 21, 2016
Thanks for tha AR6200 recommendation. If the additive I try this weekend doesn't do the trick, I'll grab a bottle of that via Amazon, and see if that works well.

The funny thing, so far, I've gotten decent results by using Star-Tron (I just dumped the entire bottle into the gas tank), which helped improve the starting time, the B-12 use seemed to help a little bit more... maybe it might just be this that actually gets things running like they should. I miss starting the generator with just one pull, or a quick twist of the key.
Sam_Spade
Explorer
Jan 22, 2016
mlts22 wrote:

Thanks. That is what I bought. I'll know this Friday if that 15 ounce can lives up to its reputation or not.

It's important to note that 15 oz will only treat up to 15 gallons at the recommended rate, which is 1 oz per gallon.

If there is a problem already present, 2 oz per gallon often works a bit better.

It might take several runs over a couple of days for max. effect.

You should NOT just dump the whole can in the tank without knowing (about) how much gas is in there. One can in a full 50 gallon tank, for instance, might not do much of anything.
John_Joey
Explorer
Jan 23, 2016
Sam Spade wrote:
mlts22 wrote:

Thanks. That is what I bought. I'll know this Friday if that 15 ounce can lives up to its reputation or not.

It's important to note that 15 oz will only treat up to 15 gallons at the recommended rate, which is 1 oz per gallon.

If there is a problem already present, 2 oz per gallon often works a bit better.

It might take several runs over a couple of days for max. effect.

You should NOT just dump the whole can in the tank without knowing (about) how much gas is in there. One can in a full 50 gallon tank, for instance, might not do much of anything.

So what was the results you got. Was the stuff a mechanic in a can or not?
Sam_Spade
Explorer
Jan 23, 2016
John&Joey wrote:

So what was the results you got. Was the stuff a mechanic in a can or not?

Yes. I'm the one who made the original recommendation.
It has worked miracles for me a few times over the years.
John_Joey
Explorer
Jan 23, 2016
Sam Spade wrote:
John&Joey wrote:

So what was the results you got. Was the stuff a mechanic in a can or not?

Yes. I'm the one who made the original recommendation.
It has worked miracles for me a few times over the years.

I was actually hoping mlts22 would do a follow up. He mentioned he was going to try it on Friday. As they say, he doesn't have any "skin in the game," so I was wondering what he thought after his test.
Big_Katuna
Explorer II
Jan 23, 2016
My Onan 5500 Gold developed a bad knock. I feared the worst, took it to Giant Recreation World in Ormond Beach.

Tech listened to it and told me to go into the parts dept and buy a can of Onan 4C (cleaner).

I took it home and followed the directions; spraying slowly not letting it stall for a few minutes, then spraying heavy enough to stall.

Let it set a few hours, was like new afterwards.

They build up carbon from oil blow by being air cooled, the rings are looser than a water cooled engine.
John_Joey
Explorer
Jan 23, 2016
The reason why you decarbonize a non fuel injected engine is because the carbon gets so hot it does a pre ignition of the air/fuel mixture. That is the reason for the knocking. Ignition occurred prior to TDC causing the piston/arm to ever so slightly go backwards making the knock.

Seafoam would have done the same thing, and may or may not have been cheaper then the OEM stuff.

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