Forum Discussion
BFL13
Nov 22, 2018Explorer II
Thanks about the alcohol definition.
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EDIT--I ran the gen to see how the overload circuit breaker works. Plugged the RV into the gen, turned on the MW, no red light, turned on the fridge with 120v and red light started to flash, ran ok, same as when I was doing the 75 charger, turned on a kettle and red light went steady and just after that the gen went burp and stopped the 120v and also the engine slowed down a little but kept running nicely.(eco was off for all this) I unplugged the cord, pushed the circuit breaker reset button, and the engine speeded up again and the green light came on for 120 output. All back to normal.
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Looking at Mr Wiz's numbers and mine I can't get the efficiencies to match, but we have the same converter/chargers (75 amp adjustable voltage)
I need to get this straight for calculating whether I can run the 75 if only I dial down the set voltage so the battery voltage can't rise above that and add more to the "output watts". That way maybe I can limit the VA required to under what sets off the red flashing light.
Mr Wiz got:
113v, 15.03a, 1350w, 1698VA, 0.79PF, output 13.2 x 80.5 = 1063w
So efficiency there is 1063/1350 = 79%
I got:
118v, 14.49a, 1247w, 1715VA, 0.73PF, output 14.2 x 75 = 1065w
So efficiency there is 1065/1247 = 85%
If we use the "gross efficiencies" including PF, it is
1063/1698 = 62.6% vs 1065/1715 = 62.1%
So if I set 14.1v on the charger (the AGM spec is 14.1 to 14.4) then at 75a, output watts will be 1058.
Using "gross efficiency" of 62.1% that would be 1703VA
If I use "efficiency" then input watts is 1058/86 = 1230 and my PF of 0.73, then VA is 1685
That flashing red light was not on when VA was 1625 but was on at 1715VA. The 15/20 receptacle is whatever limit a 15/20 has, but the gen limit is 14.2a at 120v. (except for a "surge" being higher limit) The 120v circuit breaker does not pop while the red light is flashing so power keeps flowing and the engine does not slow down any (by ear--no rev counter)
I would like to just ignore that flashing red light and go by the circuit breaker popping and see a steady red light as my overload limit, but I don't know the actual risk if any.
Very tempted to set that charger to 14.1v and pretend I can't see the flashing red light!
---------------
EDIT--I ran the gen to see how the overload circuit breaker works. Plugged the RV into the gen, turned on the MW, no red light, turned on the fridge with 120v and red light started to flash, ran ok, same as when I was doing the 75 charger, turned on a kettle and red light went steady and just after that the gen went burp and stopped the 120v and also the engine slowed down a little but kept running nicely.(eco was off for all this) I unplugged the cord, pushed the circuit breaker reset button, and the engine speeded up again and the green light came on for 120 output. All back to normal.
----------
Looking at Mr Wiz's numbers and mine I can't get the efficiencies to match, but we have the same converter/chargers (75 amp adjustable voltage)
I need to get this straight for calculating whether I can run the 75 if only I dial down the set voltage so the battery voltage can't rise above that and add more to the "output watts". That way maybe I can limit the VA required to under what sets off the red flashing light.
Mr Wiz got:
113v, 15.03a, 1350w, 1698VA, 0.79PF, output 13.2 x 80.5 = 1063w
So efficiency there is 1063/1350 = 79%
I got:
118v, 14.49a, 1247w, 1715VA, 0.73PF, output 14.2 x 75 = 1065w
So efficiency there is 1065/1247 = 85%
If we use the "gross efficiencies" including PF, it is
1063/1698 = 62.6% vs 1065/1715 = 62.1%
So if I set 14.1v on the charger (the AGM spec is 14.1 to 14.4) then at 75a, output watts will be 1058.
Using "gross efficiency" of 62.1% that would be 1703VA
If I use "efficiency" then input watts is 1058/86 = 1230 and my PF of 0.73, then VA is 1685
That flashing red light was not on when VA was 1625 but was on at 1715VA. The 15/20 receptacle is whatever limit a 15/20 has, but the gen limit is 14.2a at 120v. (except for a "surge" being higher limit) The 120v circuit breaker does not pop while the red light is flashing so power keeps flowing and the engine does not slow down any (by ear--no rev counter)
I would like to just ignore that flashing red light and go by the circuit breaker popping and see a steady red light as my overload limit, but I don't know the actual risk if any.
Very tempted to set that charger to 14.1v and pretend I can't see the flashing red light!
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