Xanrex Inverter/Charger Over Charging
We had a solar panel and inverter installed when we bought our Jayco Whitehawk TT as well as converting the 12 volt to two six volt batteries. Expensive ones. The first time we used the inverter whil...
Forum Discussion
Put the solar controller to battery wires on the inverter/charger DC terminals so they share that fat wire and no need to drill holes for that route. Put the controller near the inverter/charger
#10 roof wiring was ok for the 150w panel to controller. 30 ft of #8 worked fine with my 130w panel at "12v". Got full amps. You could put your second 150 in series for a 24v array and install an MPPT 30 amper which will buck down to your 12v battery bank and have the "24v" wires to the roof, allowing for thinner wire. So 30 ft of #8 would be fine for that. (at 300w at 24v same amps as 150w at 12v so same wire gauge ok) Not sure #10 would be fat enough.
Trimetric--the key is everything negative goes on its 500a shunt including your big fat inverter/charger wire. Means stacking several neg lugs on the one shunt bolt which is not so good--you might need a "neg buss" to collect the various neg wires and run one fat neg wire from the buss to the shunt. The other end of the shunt has just one fat wire to the neg battery post. BTW, the existing wire from that neg battery post to the frame comes off the frame and onto the Trimetric shunt too so you can read whatever loads use the frame as their negative paths.
You need to pick where the Trimetric display will go--it is sort of in your face--so not right in front of where you sit, and then it needs a hidden route (such as in a cupboard behind the display) for its wire to the shunt, which will be near the inverter/charger with the fat wires there. You should pick those locations and not let the installer do whatever suits him.
#10 roof wiring was ok for the 150w panel to controller. 30 ft of #8 worked fine with my 130w panel at "12v". Got full amps. You could put your second 150 in series for a 24v array and install an MPPT 30 amper which will buck down to your 12v battery bank and have the "24v" wires to the roof, allowing for thinner wire. So 30 ft of #8 would be fine for that. (at 300w at 24v same amps as 150w at 12v so same wire gauge ok) Not sure #10 would be fat enough.
Trimetric--the key is everything negative goes on its 500a shunt including your big fat inverter/charger wire. Means stacking several neg lugs on the one shunt bolt which is not so good--you might need a "neg buss" to collect the various neg wires and run one fat neg wire from the buss to the shunt. The other end of the shunt has just one fat wire to the neg battery post. BTW, the existing wire from that neg battery post to the frame comes off the frame and onto the Trimetric shunt too so you can read whatever loads use the frame as their negative paths.
You need to pick where the Trimetric display will go--it is sort of in your face--so not right in front of where you sit, and then it needs a hidden route (such as in a cupboard behind the display) for its wire to the shunt, which will be near the inverter/charger with the fat wires there. You should pick those locations and not let the installer do whatever suits him.
