ZAMP solar pre-wire

I checked the links and they didn't really answer my questions as to whether Zamp is using proprietary connectors.
I am just curious as to whether RV solar pre-wire is just marketing to sell a brand (proprietary) or if it is truly useful where you can connect whatever you want using MC4 and they just solve the cable run problem for us. For me, conduit from the roof to the front of the basement and a pass-thru to the battery compartment would be the most useful "solar ready."

SkiSmuggs wrote:
I checked the links and they didn't really answer my questions as to whether Zamp is using proprietary connectors.

From the look of the components of their 450W kit, it looks like they don't use MC4 connectors. With MC4 the parallel wiring of their 3*150W panels for their PWM controller would've been done using MC4 Y-splitters, and I don't see such splitters in the kit.
Btw, when MC4 are used, they are only on the "panel" end of the cable - on the "controller end" you use a stripped wire.

SkiSmuggs wrote:
I am just curious as to whether RV solar pre-wire is just marketing to sell a brand (proprietary)

In this case - yes, I would think so.

SkiSmuggs wrote:
For me, conduit from the roof to the front of the basement and a pass-thru to the battery compartment would be the most useful "solar ready."

Yes, but then they wouldn't be able to sell you those panels and controller :)...
There is more elegant solution that doesn't involve a conduit or a roof junction box - 2 or 3 24V panels in series and MPPT controller. A lot more power - think 600 or 750W, and you can use a normal MC4 extension cable cut in half (with stripped wire on controller end).

PS: their "panel mounting feet" are poor. Too small foot, screws into the roof will be too closely spaced. On 1/2" particle board of a typical trailer or 5-er you need to distribute the load over wider area. Also, I'm not sure that after you fasten the bracket to the bottom of the panel and then drive the screws into the roof, you'll be able later to get under the panel and undo the screws in the bottom of the frame if you need to remove the panel. The only alternative then would be ripping the screws out of the plywood.

Our 2003 trailer came "pre-wired for solar" with #8 wire (some other brands only came with #10 wire) but just with the wires in place. You provide a controller and array of your choice.

They provided for the controller to be miles from the battery bank up front, so I changed their arrangement, but used their wires mostly and got it done.

As long as the wire is there you can put all the watts you like. Depending on actual wire size you will need to increase voltage by putting panels in series and using an MPPT controller. Probably lower cost to procure your own panels and controller based on your needs. Snip and crimp you can have any connector you like on that wire.

smkettner wrote:
As long as the wire is there you can put all the watts you like. Depending on actual wire size you will need to increase voltage by putting panels in series and using an MPPT controller.

Yes. When wire is #8 or #10, you have to either install a few 24V panels in series or limit the wattage to ~300W with two 12V panels in parallel. And, like BFL said, God knows where they will end this wire on the controller side. Or - how they will terminate it on the roof - I wouldn't want any rooftop junction box if I'm not going to do high-wattage parallel install.

Most panels have MC4 connectors, they are easy to work with, waterproof, no need to crimp anything.

I would rather have just a pre-installed "conduit" like OP said, with no wire, but this is a wishful thinking.

Check out this Cable Entry Plate by Go Power

http://gpelectric.com/products/cable-entry-plate

I believe it is designed for MC4

smkettner wrote:
http://gpelectric.com/products/cable-entry-plate

I believe it is designed for MC4

Looks nice. It is designed for MC4, but you need to tell RV manufacturer to order and use this particular part. They say "can be used on its own", but then you need to crimp #10 cable to these glands.

And, if you can route through the side of the fridge vent, then you don't need this plate. IMO, a better way to do it, no holes to drill in the roof.

Zamp connector



Looks a lot like a standard SAE connector

Padlin wrote:
Zamp connector

MC4 connectors look more weather-proof. MC4 extension cable itself, being designated as "solar" is (probably) more UV-resistant. Very sturdy insulation, hard to cut.