your going to cool that sucker off so much it will lose efficiency and milage 🤣
When we get to Arizona. I'll decide if I should reinstall the 192 degree Motorcraft thermostat or not. I'll keep the truck setup to handle the worst circumstances driving, not the best.
what thermostat do you have in it now? you should l
keep the factory temp one In my opinion as opeating temp is a balancing game between fuel milage and wear on the engine (and other stuff)
I have a Mishimoto 185 degree thermostat in now. After we drive down to Arizona and see how the truck performs, I'll decide If I want to reinstall the slightly used new Motorcraft 192 degree stock thermostat. My experience is, this engine can get hot fast going up hills. I always have my INNOVA 5610 scanner connected showing live data, focus on coolant temperature. With the new radiator installed, You should think It will never overheat and blow out coolant again. Until I establish that it will not overheat, I'll keep the 185 in and the scanner connected. I see a lot of videos dealing with 6.0 Liter engines overheating. That is why they have a BPD kit to install a 7.3 fan clutch. I prefer what I did, installing the 6.0 Liter severe duty, snowplow fan clutch. I notice no difference in the amount of noise it produces over the standard fan clutch. It does get louder when I hit the blue switch to manually kick it on to lock up full speed. It rapidly drops the engine temperature when I turn that fan switch on. Highly recommend the blue wire switch mod to anyone. Another advantage getting the severe duty fan clutch instead of the 7.3 clutch is it works with the truck electronic control system, no engine light... That about sums it up. If the temps stay at 185 going over some of the big passes heading south on 395 and when we get down into Death Valley and Yuma. I'll decide if I want to reinstall the 192 thermostat. As I stated, I'll setup the truck for the worst conditions.
it surprises me this was nessasary for an upgrade as the 6L cooling was way better then then 7.3L, infact it was a 7.3L upgrade to install a 6.0L radiator, so I always thought they were good.
I think the severe duty fan clutch is the better way to go for controlling heat. I did that and I do not hear the supposed greater noise people say happens unless the computer tells the fan to lockup. You do hear it then. You can also see the engine temperature rapidly begin to drop. When I hit that fan switch, the overheating goes away. I'm trying to get to where the fan is only needed in the worst of situations. I purposely avoided using the fan switch during testing this trip. I probably would have had no issues had I switched the fan on. I wouldn't have the results I was looking to get though. The other advantage of the severe duty fan clutch over the 7.3 adaption is it plugs into the wire harness and works with the system so you don't get an engine MIL light. If the 6.0 Liter radiator is considered an upgrade for the 7.3, that would suggest the 6.0 Liter does run hotter and needs greater cooling. The 7.3 reservoir bottle vent hose could connect to the the tube on top of the 6.0 radiator but an alteration would have to be made for the hose from the bottle that connects to the bottom of the radiator since the 6.0 only has one connection.I recall reading a 6.4 liter radiator was an upgrade to the 6.0 Liter. I'll have to check on that.
ya, you didn't say the fan was unplugged in your test, that was a good chunk of info you left out haha.
why are you trying to avoid that coming on, it will only come on at factory set values and thoes are based off temp. so if you have inproved the cooling it should by default come on less. I would put it back in service (controled by the truck computer) and do the test again and see what happenes.
