Bought a second truck.
Last week I bought this 1976 Ford F-250 4-wd, gratefully it isn't a highboy. I really think I stole it after searching for another truck. Body and paint a bit rough but very little to almost...
Forum Discussion
1320Fastback wrote:
If the rear is full floating they are pretty easy to work on but be ready for a drum that weighs about 47 pounds. I upgraded my rear brakes to wider shoes and bigger Chevy wheel cylinders. I also bypassed the ABS but doubt your old girls got that.
Not sure if that old will have outboard drums or not. If not, get the right size socket and seal driver to add to your tool kit. I did a lot of them with punch, wood blocks, and other MacGyver systems. But with the right tools to drive in seals, and to torque bearing nuts I had no more failures (unless I hit seal on axle threads)
BTW, working with dual wheels I would jack up the end of axle, remove axle and bearing nuts, then lower until tires just touch a sheet of steel on ground. Dump some water on the steel, slide tires, wheels hub and drum off as a unit. If the axle stays at same height, slide sludge hammer handle thru bearings and into axle. This makes it easy to align front/back as you slide back together. If I was working on single wheel I would take 1 side apart that way, to see if it would stand up well enough to work. The slide might be as hard as lifting hub off/on, but when in position to lift it is hard to see seal go past the end of axle.
(LOL, I bought a jack designed to roll with assembly on and off, but also replaced trucks with 1s with outboard drums)
