VIDEO: Reassembling the engine, exhaust ported, headers matched and mounted, right head on

Question

VIDEO: Update, starting to put the engine back together after all modifications.

Finally Re-Installing the heads back on the 2000 F-250 5.4 Liter engine. I finish porting the exhaust, test the fit alignment, apply hi-temperature sealant, and discover the SS exhaust bolts Gibson supplied me with the headers, are too short and pull the threads out! I removed the Gibson bolts, and reused the SS studs I had installed the stock exhaust manifolds with just about 20K miles ago when the engine was a new Ford rebuild. I set the right head in place on the right side of the engine block and run the new ARP studs down to the bottom, then back them out 1/4 turn as the ARP technical rep directed during a call to ARP. Also apply grease to the threads on the studs going into the block. Install the flat washer dry and waffle side down to a clean dry surface on the head, then lubricate the bottom of the nut and brush lubricant on the threads, install torquing 30, 60, 85 pounds torque in those three increments. I bought three new ICON Torque Wrenches from Harbor Freight to do the job. In the next video, I'll be doing the Left Head and the Timing components, also changing the oil pump to a high volume high pressure pump. That's for this video. If you're a 2 valve 5.4 liter engine owner, there are several videos before this one since my last post, showing other work done to the engine and heads if your interested in taking a look.

opnspaces · Answer

Well done video, I would not have liked try to lift that head in by myself. You probably mentioned it in a different video, but what is the welding for in the pictures above? Is it blocking off a coolant passage because of your new mods to the back of the heads?

camper_jeff___k · Answer

Yes, I closed the rear coolant passages. They serve no purpose and will never ever be used on this truck. The right rear was leaking after our trip to see the solar eclipse. The head gasket was also leaking oil into the coolant system and there was some cylinder blow going into the coolant system. All this happened when the water pump failed and we had a boil over and over heat on the day we left for our trip to Texas which due to weather, turned into Arkansas, to see the eclipse. As the trip progressed over the next couple months, so did all the leaking. So I'm doing what I can to try and prevent head gasket failure from happening again. The Cometic gaskets are supposed to seal really well and handle a 1000 plus horse power. Welding shut the rear coolant passages prevents two leak points from happening again.

I'm hoping the headers, exhaust porting, and port matching the exhaust ports to the headers, and the Y-Pipe to straighten out the exhaust and remove two choke points in the exhaust will help increase horse power. The cold air intake I fashioned may or may not help but the cold air inlet is now 3-1/2" where it was 2-1/2" before. That's got to be good for something. The rear of the head coolant adaptors are supposed to promote more even cooling in the heads and eliminate the hot spots at cylinders #4 and #8. Also installing a high volume oil pump, new timing chains, guides, and tensioners. That brings you up to date on all the projects done to hopefully improve the engine. There are about 5 or so videos I didn't post here that will show the other work if you're interested. Take care.

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VIDEO: Reassembling the engine, exhaust ported, headers matched and mounted, right head on

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