1/2 ton SUV. What's diff in 4000 vs 6000 lb trailer? 1st TT

For three years we pulled a 28BH Starcraft Autumn Ridge w/ no slide with a 2011 Suburban. Some of the scariest driving ever was towing the trailer in Montana going west on highway 2 from East Glacier. End of 3rd year we finally traded in the Suburban for a 2014 3500HD Duramax and boy am I relieved. No more trailer more of that jerk and sway we used to experience. We upgraded our TT to a Springdale similar length but with a slide. Much better driving experience and more room in the trailer. For us the smaller TT wasn't an option but if it is in your case I hope your driving experience in wind will be better than ours used to be.

Thanks for the insights. Greatly appreciated.

Dan

most Empty weight of trailer is NOT real weight... many are wrong by 400-500 pounds..

mine is 800 pounds more then the posted tag weight. EMPTY.. get it weighted. and your Tow Vehicle.

5,000 lbs will be 6,500 lbs loaded up...I would not be as concerned with the overall length. I mean, it's a concern for sure but keep it around 30ft and you should be good to go. The front profile of the trailer is something I concern myself with. A slightly heavier, low CG TT at about 9.5-10.5 ft tall with an aerodynamic front profile will pull easier than a 11.5-12.5 ft TT with a nearly flat front profile...the reason is aerodynamics. A shorter profile with a more aerodynamic front end takes less effort to pull through the air.

Just something else to think about. Either of those trailers are well in a well equipped (tow package) Half Ton SUV's capability.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

Keep in mind that the weights you are quoting are dry weights. No one tows at the dry weight. Factory installed options generally add around 500#, then add your "stuff". The GVWR of the Micro Lite 23 LB for example is 5316. Your ready to tow weight will be closer to that number than the dry weight number. That said any 1/2 ton will easily tow that trailer. Mine has a 4750# GVWR and it tows beautifully.

WNYBob wrote:
One thing I would look at is going to or negotiating for is load rating E tires. Most 1/2 ton truck or SUVs come with P tires. Es have much stiffer side walls which will enhance the tow performance.

While I can appreciate that this is pretty much a necessity with 30' trailers and/or a 3/4 ton truck, today's light truck/SUV "P" rated tires are not the same ones that are on your Buick Le Sabre. Nor are they the same as the ones they were putting on Suburbans 20 years ago. I've had several Suburbans. I used to change out the "P" tires for LTs right after I bought them.

On a 1/2 ton towing a modest size trailer I see no reason for the expense of an "E" tire. I've been running truck/SUV "P" rated tires on my last 3 trucks. Unlike car "P" tires, truck/SUV "P" rated tires can take more psi and have stiffer sidewalls. My Sierra currently has Yokohama Geolander AT/S tires. I run them at 48 psi when towing. They are fine. As good of a towing experience as any LT I've ever owned.

We used to tow a 7500-lb (GVWR) 34' trailer with our 1/2 ton, and after 6 years of many long trips with that combo, I was tired of towing such a large one. (Weight was not as much as issue with us as was size.) We traded it for a 6000-lb (GVWR) 27' trailer and I (as the driver) am MUCH happier. It handles better, and we can fit into more national forest/state park/national park campsites with the shorter trailer than the longer one. I'd advise the smaller trailer you're looking at - even if you're considering upgrading the tow vehicle.

Previous comments on payload capacity of the vehicle and LT tires instead of P tires I also agree with. We did upgrade our tires to LTs a few years ago as well.

Before the current truck and the big trailer, we towed a 24' hybrid trailer with an SUV (Ford Explorer, before it was redesigned into a car) and it was not a pleasant experience. We did feel the "tail wagging the dog" even with sway control, due at least in part to the short wheelbase of the SUV. Another reason to choose the smaller trailer in your case. :)

One thing I would look at is going to or negotiating for is load rating E tires. Most 1/2 ton truck or SUVs come with P tires. Es have much stiffer side walls which will enhance the tow performance.

Thanks for the suggestions. Greatly appreciated. I assume a 4000lb trailer would be much easier to tow. That's the main one were interested in, the Micro Lite 23LB. 3900 lbs and 23.5' OAL. Since we're wanting to stay with 1/2 ton SUV, that might be the way to go. Thanks for any further thoughts.

Dan

My only real comment is longer wheel base tow vehicle, and 6000 pounds of 19 foot camper can be uncomfortable behind a short wheel base 1/2 ton pick up truck. It has enough surface area to catch wind, and enough mass to push a smaller truck around. Certainly doable, and usually quite manageable, but sometimes uncomfortable.

Dan,

As has been said so many times on this and other forums - forget the tow ratings. With a 1/2 ton vehicle one usually runs out of payload for tongue/pin weight before hitting the maximum trailer towing capacity of the tow vehicle. Other concerns, as you go up in weight with a trailer, are the brakes going down grades and engine RPM and transmission temp going up those grades. (You mentioned the Smokey Mountains and National Parks.) If you search this forum, you'll find lots of threads on how to go about it, but many will advise loading your tow vehicle up (occupants, fuel, pets, hitch, junk, etc.) and head for the nearest CAT scales. Weight the axles separately. The difference between that scale weight - especially the rear axle - and the GVWR on the door sticker is what you have left for payload (tongue weight, in your case). Conventional trailers typically run about 12% of their loaded weight (go by GVWR on the trailer - NOT the dry weight) on the tongue. Keep in mind, also, that 4WD reduces your payload capacity because of the added weight of the transfer case and front drive axle. Search, research and read.

Rob