12 volt Refrigerators

BurbMan wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
Often 10 cu ft "apartment size" are good choice because they typically have the lowest draw and best insulation.. The one I have has a name plate draw of 1.1A for the compressor and 1.6A defrost draw.

That's 1.1a @ 120v...at 12v that's 11a. My old 3-way absorption fridge used about 15a on 12v for the heating element. One of the reasons I replaced it with a 2-way that I just run on propane.

The new 12v compressor fridges are good for some applications, but are still challenging for boondocking without a generator. just like a 120v residential fridge. Solar is great, but you're dependent on the weather, a cloudy day will kill your production. In my TC, there's just isn't enough real estate on the roof for 400w of panels.

I believe that eventually absorption fridges will become obsolete but the tech just isn't there yet.

Remember that marine is not apples-to-apples....1) propane is not allowed below deck; 2) any boat big enough to have a fridge has a generator; and 3) you don't stay in one spot on the water like you do in a CG.

I’ve said to myself numerous times that when my 3-way Dometic fridge poops out on me I’ll replace it with a 12-volt compressor model, or maybe find a compressor conversion kit for it. I’ve had very good luck with a small 12v portable compressor unit that was very reasonably priced, so my confidence in them is pretty high.

My propane fridge keeps soldiering on though, and it’s performance continues to surprise me. I just turned it on yesterday in preparation for a trip, and it was down to minimum temps in about four hours in LP mode. Of course our ambients we’re in the 50’s at the time, but still.

Aside from all the normal preventative maintenance they require, I’ve found that one of the most important items that should be checked is the LP pressure. It doesn’t have to fall off very much before it has an effect on the fridge in LP mode. I check mine at least annually now.

I don’t have solar panels right now, although I could add some now that I have a DC-DC charger that has a solar input. I may add some someday, but for now taking advantage of the charging potential available while driving was a better fit for our traveling and camping style. Up to 40 amps whenever the engine is running. Our trips usually involve a lot of driving, sometimes at night when solar doesn’t seem to work very well, so I needed something I could depend on more.

Our stationary power needs are typically low enough that occasional use of a 1000 watt generator will suffice, and I’m sure a modest solar system would as well. But, I prefer shady spots to full sun so I suspect I’d still have at least occasional need for a generator, especially if I were to add a 12v fridge to the mix.

:):)