I want some tires to last more than 2 years. Our 2000 Coleman Timberlake came with 13" "C" rated tires (1360 lbs). I "upgraded" to GY 1480 lb rated tires and have gone through two sets in 5 years. My last set of tires: I found "D" rated tires (1610 lbs) at eTrailer.com and thought I was all set for a while. Less than 2 years later, boom, another blowout. Before you ask: 1. no, I have not actually weighed the trailer, however I took the dry weight, added the weight of the A/C etc, and weighed the storage boxes etc we store inside, added it all up and calculated that I was still 250 lbs under the GVWR of 3000 lbs. 3. Always had GYs at 60psi (GY rec) and "D"s at 65psi - checked prior to leaving on every trip.eTrailer had the same "D" rated tires at something like $220/pair (including new wheels). Anyone know of a better deal out there, or better tires out there? I'd be happy to pay more, if they would last 5 years so I could finally be one of those "my popup tires are 5 years old - should I replace them even though they look ok?" folks, I keep reading about :).

Any chance of going to 14" wheels? If you can fit 14" wheels, you have a somewhat better selection of manufacturers to choose from. The guys here at work that have small trailers swear by the Kuhmo Radial 857's ...

You've nailed the typical reason for tire failure: under inflation.Another aspect of tire performance and longevity is how fast are you driving?Have you noticed if the tires blow on your way out, or on the return trip?Do you also check tire pressure at the destination and has it changed (after returning to ambient air temperature)? Maybe there is a hole somewhere in the rim/valve stem/etc thatlets out sir and at some point, you reach the critical flexing of the side wall that causes a blow out.Ultimately for me, it was speed that killed my tires. Once I slowed down to 60-ish MPH, I quit blowing tires.

One of the reasons I quit "pullen" leaving my Pup in storage at the campground were I spend the Summer. I blew all 3 originals within 2 years plus a new one running around the West.

bondebond wrote:Ultimately for me, it was speed that killed my tires. Once I slowed down to 60-ish MPH, I quit blowing tires.Speed = Heat I make sure to drive a bit slower when the ambient temps are high. I'm going on 4th season (approximately 15,000 miles) on my tires.And the other benefit of driving 65mph instead of 75mph is better fuel economy!

One of the reasons I went with the GY tires 3 sets ago was GY, at the time, rated the tires at 75 mph if you increased the pressure from 50psi to 60psi. However, I saw at that as a safety cushion, and still did not pull the trailer faster than 65 mph. The most recent blowout, on the "D" rated tires, was at less than 65mph (but probably close to 65), the ambient temp was at most 80 degrees, and we had left home less than 45 minutes earlier, where I had verified the pressure at 65 psi.

13" Tire Rec for Popup | Good Sam Community

Bill___Kate
Explorer
May 01, 2013
Any chance of going to 14" wheels? If you can fit 14" wheels, you have a somewhat better selection of manufacturers to choose from. The guys here at work that have small trailers swear by the Kuhmo Radial 857's ...
bondebond
Explorer
May 01, 2013
You've nailed the typical reason for tire failure: under inflation.

Another aspect of tire performance and longevity is how fast are you driving?

Have you noticed if the tires blow on your way out, or on the return trip?

Do you also check tire pressure at the destination and has it changed (after returning to ambient air temperature)? Maybe there is a hole somewhere in the rim/valve stem/etc thatlets out sir and at some point, you reach the critical flexing of the side wall that causes a blow out.

Ultimately for me, it was speed that killed my tires. Once I slowed down to 60-ish MPH, I quit blowing tires.
Serenlyretired
Explorer
May 01, 2013
One of the reasons I quit "pullen" leaving my Pup in storage at the campground were I spend the Summer. I blew all 3 originals within 2 years plus a new one running around the West.
JLTN_James
Explorer
May 01, 2013
bondebond wrote:
Ultimately for me, it was speed that killed my tires. Once I slowed down to 60-ish MPH, I quit blowing tires.

Speed = Heat

I make sure to drive a bit slower when the ambient temps are high. I'm going on 4th season (approximately 15,000 miles) on my tires.
And the other benefit of driving 65mph instead of 75mph is better fuel economy!
davpratt
Explorer
May 01, 2013
One of the reasons I went with the GY tires 3 sets ago was GY, at the time, rated the tires at 75 mph if you increased the pressure from 50psi to 60psi. However, I saw at that as a safety cushion, and still did not pull the trailer faster than 65 mph. The most recent blowout, on the "D" rated tires, was at less than 65mph (but probably close to 65), the ambient temp was at most 80 degrees, and we had left home less than 45 minutes earlier, where I had verified the pressure at 65 psi.
bondebond
Explorer
May 01, 2013
Are you running bias or radials?

Another wrinkle in the mix for me was switching from a PUP with 12" wheels to one with 14" wheels. That was a major upgrade in construction, tread width and diameter, etc. You would probably see less of an improvement going from a 13" to a 14" wheel but it might be worth it.

Your 13" tire outer diameter is 24.1" and a 14" wheel and tire would be around 26.3" diameter. From the axle to your wheel well, you would loose right at an inch of clearance. If you have the room (or add an axle over/under conversion) you could do it. It would help with the typical Coleman/Fleetwood low clearance on their PUPs.
davpratt
Explorer
May 01, 2013
bondebond wrote:
Are you running bias or radials?

Another wrinkle in the mix for me was switching from a PUP with 12" wheels to one with 14" wheels. That was a major upgrade in construction, tread width and diameter, etc. You would probably see less of an improvement going from a 13" to a 14" wheel but it might be worth it.

Your 13" tire outer diameter is 24.1" and a 14" wheel and tire would be around 26.3" diameter. From the axle to your wheel well, you would loose right at an inch of clearance. If you have the room (or add an axle over/under conversion) you could do it. It would help with the typical Coleman/Fleetwood low clearance on their PUPs.

Last 3 sets have been radials, prior to that, I think they were bias.

Hmmmm ... I ruled out the 13" to 14" conversion last time, based on cost. Now I am not so sure. eTrailer.com has Kenda brand ST215/75R14 tires w/ wheels for $140 so 3 would be $420 with a 1870 lb rating at 50 psi. I will have to study the trailer to see if I think a 1" lose in clearance would be a problem. Has anyone done this with a Colewood trailer of similar size?
Serenlyretired
Explorer
May 01, 2013
I never pulled faster than 65 & usually under 60 but I still kept blowing them.
bondebond
Explorer
May 01, 2013
davpratt, I know JLTN_James has talked about going from 13" to 14" on his Fleetwood, but he's also done an axle flip, so clearance wouldn't be an issue. Poke him to see if he actually did it.

Mine came stock with 14" and I thought about moving to 15" but haven't convinced myself of the need yet other than I don't want it to fit through any garage door way :B.

Serenlyretired, what size wheels/tires are you running?
full_mosey
Explorer
May 01, 2013
Hankook makes a 13" European Commercial light truck tire that I am taking a good look at. 1609lbs and 100mph rated. 175/R13.

HTH;
John

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