Getting the fridge cabinet built meant several times putting the fridge in place and checking things, then removing it to do the work. I don't think it's been in and out 10 times, but well over five. It was enough to become a routine.
The stand and shelf, and the fixed left cabinet wall, were important to complete first. Once I got those done, including the finish, then it was a matter of making a right side partition wall.
Of course the fridge is insulated so the cabinet walls don't necessarily need insulation, like how the cabinet was stuffed full of Styrofoam block upon removal of the original icebox. And it was important for me to recoup the storage spots when able. I built the right wall in such a way as to carry a full size ax. Even so it was quite a tight fit and in actuality, I'll probably carry a folding army shovel and a 3/4 size ax in that space.
I also wanted a nice tight cabinet, in both the fridge space, and in all the storage spaces. Therefore, along with primer and paint I am applying a good bead of caulking in all the corners and other seams. Anywhere I can reduce air and dust drafts will help.
As we use the camper, finding air leaks (such as the wide open flow between the interior bottom control area of the fridge and the back side lower open air vent, will become easier to control and mitigate if I know from the beginning that the cabinets and storage locations are sealed.
Here's the build...
Test fit fridge in place.
Here's the back side. Note the angle iron horizontal leg on the far side has had about 3" cut off to allow easier access into the storage area.
These 1/8" panel pieces cover a 3/4" deep by about 2.5" wide channel for 110V and 12V wiring. It's possible I'll still run the galley sink grey water drain line through here (above the covers), but it may also run between the fridge and the range on the range side. The fresh water will all run on the interior to control freezing. The small space below the "ax shelf" can store medium size tools and objects, unless the grey line runs through there, or even with it.
Here is a test fit view of where the fridge cabinet right wall partition needs to be added.
This storage area will allow for small objects to be placed in this sort of tray, under the shore power cord(s). That tray is between the wiring channel on the outside and the shoe storage on the inside.
This was quite a gap to fill, as the wall piece was originally designed for the 3/4" fridge shelf board. Because I ended up needing to use 1/4" material I had to place some of the gap above and some below. It all got filled with caulking. Paint to follow.
And from the chimney (upper vent) the fridge appears thus...
Here is the right wall partition, built out of 1/8" paneling as there is no need for structure here, just partition. This will be the fridge side...
And the narrow storage side...
Here are 3/4" cleats, cut to size, pre-drilled and put in place. These will keep the partition in a nice, secure position, but with enough room for the fridge to slide in and out as easily. Most of the cleats were fastened with screws through the cleat and into the surface material, except on the 1/4" shelf where shorter screws were driven from below into the cleat.
And with the partition in place. I used pneumatic 3/4" staples for fastening the panel to the cleats.
Here are some shots of how the storage space works out with the partition and fridge in place.
That's a 50' cord. For a 15-20 Amp Input I think I could easily fit a 100' cord in here. I also have a 10 footer (blue) for easy carry and hookup if I feel two cords of different lengths are useful to have on board. Incidentally, the blue cords are "cold weather" cords. They stay flexible in sub-zero temperatures; we picked ours up while living in Fairbanks, AK. They sell them in the lower 48, but they are EVERYWHERE in Fairbanks.
And these next photos show the caulking treatment, paint to follow. It's important to me to not only have finished (painted) utility service areas, but to also have dust, water and air sealed out as much as possible. Again, that will aid in future fine-tuning of draft areas, not to mention keep things as free from dirt as possible. I want to treat the storage areas themselves, as tool-boxes.
When push comes to shove, all these compartments can have little fasteners and straps and loops and hooks, etc. fastened easily into the solid wood corners and surfaces for all kinds of small tools, etc. As on a small boat, this camper will require a place for everything, and everything in it's place.
