Forum Discussion
Dave_Pete
Apr 13, 2015Explorer II
And then it all came out.
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Before finishing I still had to plug the original hole for the heater gas line...
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Cover this screw hole that was problematic underneath the copper drain line elbow...
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Further widen the bottom drawer's opening; from the factory it had been too narrow and not square - I suppose the previous owner's fought that drawer every time, as it was tight (notice the pencil marks)...
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Enlarge the breadboard slot...
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And fill the gap at the left side of the breadboard slot.
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While filling the screw hole below the copper drain pipe I noticed the paneling was lifting from the framing. It's a very weak corner, but is supported well, both above and below by screws. All the framing does is lend support for the paneling. I squirted glue into the gap and clamped it until dry.
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Widening the drawer opening was easy with the saber saw.
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Enlarging the breadboard slot was a little trickier, but straight forward. They main thing here was EXACTness. To fit a full 3/4" breadboard right, the slot is 1/16" larger. Don't want it to hang up, and don't want it to be sloppy. In a case like this you just HAVE to know what part of the pencil mark gets the saw blade edge, and stick to it.
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Using part of the piece just cut out, I made a square plug. I accepted that the plug would be cross grain. I think it will hide well enough and mostly be behind a breadboard tab anyway. And the correct grain direction wasn't available with the removed piece due to saw kerf. Notice the slight bevel on the plug due to the location it was being put into. It was slightly too much bevel, but worked.
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Trading off chores to add interest, I was also inside scraping this rough wall where previous plastic laminate had been removed. I used a simple palm plane to scrape it, a tool I usually put to work on a fresh cut sheet rock edge.
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Then I filled and sanded and sanded again. Then I got to work on the doors for this galley side.
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And found another lifted corner.
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It was time to fill the gas line hole. I had considered a one size larger hole saw to cut a plug out of scrap. But my cheap set of hole saws didn't have a right size and I hardly ever use them so I didn't want a large investment in the higher quality brands, not for a 1" that normally I'd use a spade bit on. And in my cheap brand they didn't make a 1". So I bought a correct size wooden dowel (48" for 1" use) for cheap, just to find the diameter was still too small, ever so slightly. I grabbed my broom handle and it fit well, so I cut off the rounded part and then cut off a 1" chunk, and found a suitable piece of paneling.
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Then I hand sanded the surface and rounded the edges on the bench sander.
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I spread glue on the edges and pressed it into service.
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Sanded, filled and sanded.
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And then I discovered another pile of pieces needing sanding and finishing: fridge door panel, panels above and below fridge, archway cover. Ugh, I'll be glad when the sanding and finishing is done.
I fixed my broom.
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Before finishing I still had to plug the original hole for the heater gas line...
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Cover this screw hole that was problematic underneath the copper drain line elbow...
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Further widen the bottom drawer's opening; from the factory it had been too narrow and not square - I suppose the previous owner's fought that drawer every time, as it was tight (notice the pencil marks)...
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Enlarge the breadboard slot...
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And fill the gap at the left side of the breadboard slot.
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While filling the screw hole below the copper drain pipe I noticed the paneling was lifting from the framing. It's a very weak corner, but is supported well, both above and below by screws. All the framing does is lend support for the paneling. I squirted glue into the gap and clamped it until dry.
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Widening the drawer opening was easy with the saber saw.

Enlarging the breadboard slot was a little trickier, but straight forward. They main thing here was EXACTness. To fit a full 3/4" breadboard right, the slot is 1/16" larger. Don't want it to hang up, and don't want it to be sloppy. In a case like this you just HAVE to know what part of the pencil mark gets the saw blade edge, and stick to it.
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Using part of the piece just cut out, I made a square plug. I accepted that the plug would be cross grain. I think it will hide well enough and mostly be behind a breadboard tab anyway. And the correct grain direction wasn't available with the removed piece due to saw kerf. Notice the slight bevel on the plug due to the location it was being put into. It was slightly too much bevel, but worked.
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Trading off chores to add interest, I was also inside scraping this rough wall where previous plastic laminate had been removed. I used a simple palm plane to scrape it, a tool I usually put to work on a fresh cut sheet rock edge.
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Then I filled and sanded and sanded again. Then I got to work on the doors for this galley side.
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And found another lifted corner.
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It was time to fill the gas line hole. I had considered a one size larger hole saw to cut a plug out of scrap. But my cheap set of hole saws didn't have a right size and I hardly ever use them so I didn't want a large investment in the higher quality brands, not for a 1" that normally I'd use a spade bit on. And in my cheap brand they didn't make a 1". So I bought a correct size wooden dowel (48" for 1" use) for cheap, just to find the diameter was still too small, ever so slightly. I grabbed my broom handle and it fit well, so I cut off the rounded part and then cut off a 1" chunk, and found a suitable piece of paneling.
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Then I hand sanded the surface and rounded the edges on the bench sander.
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I spread glue on the edges and pressed it into service.
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Sanded, filled and sanded.
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And then I discovered another pile of pieces needing sanding and finishing: fridge door panel, panels above and below fridge, archway cover. Ugh, I'll be glad when the sanding and finishing is done.
I fixed my broom.
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