In order to hold the breadboard from sliding out and falling while underway, and to provide a method for placing sink hold-down clips along the front edge of the sink and counter top (due to it's tight spacing caused by shifting the sink forward and making room for the faucet behind), I had to again remove the counter top.
Done.
Let's start with the breadboard. It is poly finished on one side (for food prep - same as on the counter) and unfinished on it's reverse (for cutting - it will get some food grade oiling). In other words, the board needs to be able to flip. But it also needs to hold in place while underway. I discovered it could receive a simple barbed "hold-close" just like all the other pop off cabinet drawer fronts. And I had an extra wood piece and several pairs of hardware. I did need to add a simply 1/8" thick piece of wood paneling behind the wood block to obtain proper positioning. The rest was basic install.
This finished paneling board acts as a slide between itself and the breadboard bottom surface, keeping the breadboard from falling and angling down, and at the same time, protecting the top Styrofoam of the water heater.
With the countertop back in place, you can see into the breadboard slot from the cabinet face. Note the sliding board at bottom of the slot, and the two white primed "runners" above the slot. Those runners keep the breadboard flat in the other direction, and at the far ends you can see the small fastening cleats with the mounting screws.
And here is a side view.
Because the breadboard is "flippable" that creates a danger of pulling it out too far and having it fall. If we think in terms of a "square" size usable area, I think we'll be okay.
And the unfinished side.
The sink install was a little difficult - on that front edge. The clips were easy-peasy when used as designed. I found it surprising how the slightest distance out of "design" created trouble.
But the vision started this way.
I used a router to cut this in three spots, pre-chosen based on sink examination. The center spot was between basins, quite of bit of space. In hind-sight, I should have placed the two ends (in the front) a little further outboard of the sink, just to obtain space between the basin corners and the clip screws. You'll see in a minute.
And a "repair strap" only 1/16" thick. Okay, with the routed mortise, its bottom surface was closer to 3/32" further from the sink lip than was the countertop bottom surface. But I was trying to hold down the sink, AND fasten the countertop down against the cabinet face.
This picture shows what an awesome fit were the clips on a standard 3/4" countertop thickness. But add that extra 3/32" at the front and LOOK OUT! I really fought those two front outer clips!
I also discovered the "outer" positioning of the clips helped hold the sink upper edge down good, especially at the corners. Too much further inboard on a given side and the corners were much less tight against the countertop surface. The long edges sat just fine regardless.
This final picture shows the three clips on the front edge. I actually had to cut the far screw shorter to get the clip on and access with a nut driver! Crazy.
And note the straighter install of the middle clip screw. I cannot explain that. These front outer two clips were a real bear. The middle one was easy, and it had the most room for access, even though it didn't require it as much as the other two. Again, I can't explain it.
Also, I first tried plumbers putty, but it was too stiff and nowhere for the excess to spread out and it kept the sink too high for ANY of the clips to work. So I removed the putty and ran a bead of kitchen/bath sealer and then cleaned that all up once done.
Didn't get pictures from above, but today I'll install the faucet and we'll show the whole thing.
