Forum Discussion
Dave_Pete
Jan 27, 2016Explorer II
Your welcome. :)
So there was one last board to put up (actually two more small ones that will be formed and fitted along with the metal). This is the original piece (my extensive original plywood stock has diminished greatly) - a backing support to the rounded under-cab sheet aluminum skin where it curves behind the truck cab.
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Originally the ends came out flush with the sides of the camper, but I didn't like the way the metal fastened to the edge of the 1/2" plywood - especially as it curved - so I trimmed the board back 3/4" on both sides to accept end-caps, in the process removing two very splintered cuts from the original dull saw blade used.
The bevel was also somewhat wrong from the get-go, but I rectified that a bit (couldn't take too much off as it would change the depth of the board and the fit of the metal), primed it and stapled it back up with 1" staples, being careful not to run any points out through the finished wall.

You can also see some pencil markings I used to visualize and obtain a correct angle. There was lots of measurement and templating from the metal on the ceiling here to get the right placement.

And with that, insulation could go up.
Alrighty then - let's gets some underclothes on the little girl!
For starters, I bought two 25' rolls of Reflectix in the four foot width. This stuff is NOT inexpensive, for what it is (I think $43 or $48 a roll). In essence, foil-faced bubble wrap with a 5/16" nominal thickness. And while the air is trapped in the bubbles, it is fairly compressible at any given point (imagine the edge where sheet metal fastens). Better yet it is a good cushion for the metal skin, like pad for a carpet.

I used a basic hand stapler and 3/8" staples. Most sat well from the start, but where concentration lagged a few needed a light tap with a hammer. I started with the hardest surface and stood on my head for a while.

I trimmed the edges and openings with a utility knife, and a hobby knife on the small openings (clearance lights).
Now why does the "space program" come to mind?

Moving around back, I got that surface covered. You'll see a lot of piecing here. That's not a problem. There is a bit of R-value benefit, but the main value is the radiant heat reflection (bouncing that Infra-red back away on a hot day, or back into the interior on a cold one).


And I covered the entire surface, even those areas where it's not really needed for heat reflection, just to give a fully flush surface for the metal installation.
For front and back I used one roll, with only this little bit of scrap left-over.

So there was one last board to put up (actually two more small ones that will be formed and fitted along with the metal). This is the original piece (my extensive original plywood stock has diminished greatly) - a backing support to the rounded under-cab sheet aluminum skin where it curves behind the truck cab.

Originally the ends came out flush with the sides of the camper, but I didn't like the way the metal fastened to the edge of the 1/2" plywood - especially as it curved - so I trimmed the board back 3/4" on both sides to accept end-caps, in the process removing two very splintered cuts from the original dull saw blade used.
The bevel was also somewhat wrong from the get-go, but I rectified that a bit (couldn't take too much off as it would change the depth of the board and the fit of the metal), primed it and stapled it back up with 1" staples, being careful not to run any points out through the finished wall.

You can also see some pencil markings I used to visualize and obtain a correct angle. There was lots of measurement and templating from the metal on the ceiling here to get the right placement.

And with that, insulation could go up.
Alrighty then - let's gets some underclothes on the little girl!
For starters, I bought two 25' rolls of Reflectix in the four foot width. This stuff is NOT inexpensive, for what it is (I think $43 or $48 a roll). In essence, foil-faced bubble wrap with a 5/16" nominal thickness. And while the air is trapped in the bubbles, it is fairly compressible at any given point (imagine the edge where sheet metal fastens). Better yet it is a good cushion for the metal skin, like pad for a carpet.

I used a basic hand stapler and 3/8" staples. Most sat well from the start, but where concentration lagged a few needed a light tap with a hammer. I started with the hardest surface and stood on my head for a while.

I trimmed the edges and openings with a utility knife, and a hobby knife on the small openings (clearance lights).
Now why does the "space program" come to mind?

Moving around back, I got that surface covered. You'll see a lot of piecing here. That's not a problem. There is a bit of R-value benefit, but the main value is the radiant heat reflection (bouncing that Infra-red back away on a hot day, or back into the interior on a cold one).


And I covered the entire surface, even those areas where it's not really needed for heat reflection, just to give a fully flush surface for the metal installation.
For front and back I used one roll, with only this little bit of scrap left-over.

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