In fact, let's just make that day today.
Having already placed the metal over the propane compartment opening without removing its contents (doh!), I carefully pulled the bathroom sink basin up enough to reach the hose clamp. Setting it aside I was able to empty the compartment - except the tank. Okay, I'll have to work around that. At least I could lift and shift the tank from one side to the other for best access.
From here I drilled holes in the metal at the corners of the opening, and at midpoint top and bottom.
Then from the outside I used a jig-saw to cut one side and then the other, shifting the tank as needed.
Then it was more stapling and using the hammer to form the sharp edge smooth and rounded over the wood framing, as I have done on all the openings and other edges, reducing the chance of damage to fingers, hands and arms.
Moving over to the other side, I could no longer put this off. What do do here?
There's not a lot I can do to fix the aftermarket corner jack mount holes at all four corners - other than to functionally and aesthetically cover them up. And in each case there are reflector mount screw holes to consider as well, besides what falls within a 2" parameter of the lag bolt damage. And those reflectors, like the clearance/marker light installation, are installed more willy-nilly than master-measure.
But the gaping hole in this corner, along with the four mounting screws for the OEM gravity-feed water-fill? Well fortunately the metal is narrow enough and below a nearby seam that it makes the replacement option a no-brainer.
Taking careful measurements (to include the fold over seam connection and to match the proper placement of the siding pattern) I cut a suitable section from the roof hatch enlargement excess.
And put the first bend into the donor piece with my new brake from Harbor Freight.
I haven't used one of those since 9th grade! But I did get an A- on my galvanized dustpan (which is still in use in the shop despite its missing handle). But the handle still works on the pan my own daughter made in her 9th grade shop class - and I use that pan on a daily basis! In the above picture, you can even see my little metal box project from that same period (far right near the brake handle knob).
Now at this point I had to simply hammer over the lip to get it close for the seam insertion. And I didn't buy the brake for this exact purpose. It sits on the bench right now for another more necessary reason. I'll show you within another day or so.
But I had to try it out and it helped for portions of this job, even for use on such a soft metal as aluminum.
Then I slid the joint together and set the seam with a hammer against a steel-plate backing.
Now to cover the wood below the opening. Originally the metal width was about half an inch, and the metal was destroyed due to the failed wing support (when from the factory they cut out the 2x2 to slide in a metal propane compartment). My need was 2" (2x2 plus 1/2" wing thickness). I cut another donor segment from the roof-hatch excess - in the correct pattern and with extra length for seams.
Then again with careful measurement as to correct distance, I bent vertical seams.
Looking at older Travel Queen campers you'll see vertical seams were used (at least on the back walls) to install the metal. I think they caused water intrusion so they changed their methods from vertical to all horizontal seams. But I chose to use them here as they'll be covered by molding and access door framing - and the associated butyl tape.
You'll also note in the above photo, the sheet-metal grounding strap. It is here where I'll attach a ground wire connection (I think they call that "bonding" the skin).
And here's how I inserted it behind the skin for good metal to metal contact.
Yeah - that works.
Now back on the inside, I punched holes in the corners of all the new opening locations.
Connected the dots with my Dad's steel pointed pen, cut the new openings and fastened them up good.
Tomorrow it's back wall work.
