Here recently, I've been doing some Internet research on vintage RV camper or trailer windows; history, types, etc. I haven't found a lot of useful information. I have a paperback book I bought a year or so ago about the history of RVs; I should look at that again; it has lots of pictures.
But most of what you find is about the RVs themselves, not so much about such specifics as window types and when they were used.
I did learn more about
Jalousie. It seems that is "slatted windows" (like Venetian blinds) and it stems from the word jealousy - meaning privacy. Ways to cover windows from prying eyes. And the Jalousie style window can include many different types of crank open windows, from multiple glass slats, to my type where it may be one or two panels that crank out at the bottom. Perfect for ventilation when falling rain and windblown conditions exist.
I also learned they removed the above mounted "eyebrows" once the windows themselves incorporated a sort of eyebrow into the top frame. You might note that on my windows.
I have a lot of pictures to share today, as I do what I'm calling a restoration on one window. This happens to be the one for the driver side cab-over side window (I know because of slight variations in sheet metal screw-hole mounting and alignment).
Of course there is the years of oxidized aluminum to address and clean off. There is original or added-later sealer in certain corners and areas. Rust spots, hard areas to clean so they get much uglier than surrounding areas. I decided to do one window and see where it took me. The rest will follow.
Viewed from it's interior side and cranked open.
Eight (2 on each corner) frame screws removed and the framing pulled away. Two screws each removed from where the hinges mount to each side of the window panel,
and the crank pivot,
and the opposite side (plastic) pivot.
And the hinge and crank assembly apart.
That crank mechanism says "TorqueTier Windows". It, along with the hinges shown in a minute, are found online under the name Philips.
Also, notice the plastic pivot is cracked. It's not too bad and still exhibits strength. I have a badly broken one on the dinette window that will be replaced, and a few extras on my donor windows. They are also available for a few bucks online. I'll replace parts as needed while reusing most.
The crank worked very well with no hangups.
Back side.
This shot shows some of the hard metal type caulking found in corners. I don't know if it was original, or added later, but I may put something like this on fresh at some point. In evaluating the way the corner comes together, I'm not sure it's necessary. But my attentions at this point were more about how to clean these things up and disassemble/reassemble, than in final sealing thoughts. We'll look into that more.
I'm reusing and replacing screws as I feel appropriate. The exterior screws on the left that have lost their zinc coating on the heads, are being shifted into the inside (hidden in the cavity) portion, and those from the cavity are being shifted outside for better looks. The small head is desirable over the larger head on a box of screws I purchased, at least in most places. The small screws on the right are where the hinges screw to the window panel frame, and the machine screws fasten the crank mechanism to the framing.
The hinges are left and right and have part numbers. The one on right is 8002 with an "R" at the bottom. The left side has an "L" on it if you look very close (higher up, centered in the light glare) and has a part number 8003.
More of that metal caulking.
Caulking areas scraped off. I found Naptha softens it.
I found having the aluminum frame pieces disassembled great aided in their cleaning. I used steel wool and Naptha and elbow grease. Again, mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, all worked, but Naptha seemed best.
After some final cleaning and warm water wash I finally decided to open up the automotive parts cleaner (Solvent tank), and found it greatly effective. I might just start there on the next one and if it works well, it will speed the process.
In some places where the mounting screws go, there was a metal spreading that I fixed with hammer, pliers, or some such combination.
Also, the rubber pieces were quite flexible and in good condition. They needed scrubbing and cleaning and where the hinges rub, I trimmed them to look better. That damage doesn't affect the actual seal, which occurs on an adjacent surface.
I cleaned the glass and washed everything down, dried it all and laid out the pieces.
This shows how the small head screw is important.
I found the new screws only worked well on the plastic pivot fastening. They looked the same, but are a little bigger diameter I think.
Now the larger frame.
Notice the rubber side strips where the hinges rub.
Here they are trimmed. Also, I flipped the upper rubber strip so you can see both of its sides.
And here are freshened, and non-freshened side by side.
This is on all of my glass panes. However, some are in their frames backwards; somebody has done past work. I'll return those to correct positioning.
And now with the screens.
I'm doing these windows now due to "Dominoes" reasoning. Put them temporarily on the camper, partially attached (four screws) and cleaned to keep butyl tape residue off the camper wall where it will be getting paint. Attach the interior frame and screen in place to verify exactly where new mounting screws will be in both old wood, but especially in new wood that has no screw holes as yet. Remove it all and mask the back sides of all the screen frames. Re-install those interior frames with masking, then seal the corners (in the rough opening) with masking tape for painting. That process prevents masking tape on interior finish from potentially pulling finish OFF the walls by simply masking those poly-ied surfaces! And it finishes these parts for easier, more enjoyable assembly at the later date.
