Forum Discussion
Dave_Pete
Mar 15, 2016Explorer II
The upper rubber window seals I would need (again, thank goodness mine are still usable, if not adequately functional) is profiled here.
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The overall width is very close to the 7/8" described in the seal ad found in the link provided by ticki.
On mine, the angle is somewhat different, or more angle - and the one in the link may well not seal properly due to the angle alone.
Another difficulty is the bulb. On mine, the bulb seals the upper window pane frame against the main window frame, when the window is closed.
My dimensions. Bulb outer diameter 1/4" or maybe as much as 5/16". Flap width from beginning of angle break-over 3/4". Metal channel for tee is 5/32" (so maybe 1/8"). First L width less than 1/8", second L width about 5/32".
I saw one profile over the past week or so online that resembled this piece. But it was a little different in angles and perhaps sizes. I didn't bookmark it and can't find it now.
Yesterday was a "this and that" day.
First, cleaned the shop back up and regrouped; hauled firewood.
Then I did the camper interior cleanup. The high-gloss poly finish on everything is really working out as I expected and desired. Brush attachment on the shop vac horizontal and vertical surfaces (this stuff is from the previous electric sanding work).
Did almost the entire interior; didn't take long.

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Then wet/damp wipe-down with rag and soapy warm-water bucket.

That was a lot more debris than after a normal trip would have. And the cleaning was of less finesse than we'd do after a normal trip. But, it shows the ease of cleaning. Now I could get up on the bunk and roll around. Which I did more than ten times yesterday as I eye-ball aligned the interior frames to prep them for receiving new screw holes in new wood, and bits of adjustment in existing wood.
Now that I'm awaiting gasket rubber, I simply fastened this frame back together temporarily to mark placements (original exterior screw holes).

Leaving this sort of arrangement to mask against.

It is dark and cozy inside (which is what we were after, and the small lens camera exposure on the phone makes it darker than reality, just due to the bright light coming though the window, but you can kind of see the cream-colored frames in place here.

I need some more masking supplies, but I got most of it up.
Also, I did the epoxy thing again; these two places.
First - where that original factory worker I call "Wild-Router Man" made his mark.

I cut out the foil/bubble wrap, jagged the edge and provided space under and above with some depression to give the patch a little depth and backing. Did the full sanding and cleaning as before. Then used the wax paper trick again.

And - there was this ONE problematic window where the skin-stretch wasn't optimal to the wood frame (driver-side bunk). The rough opening was already tall enough; couldn't go more by sanding a portion of the upper wood (which due to its angle from the beginning of the roof-rounding would have been easy, and in fact WAS done slightly on the galley side window opening). I could have gone as little as maybe 1/8" to get those upper holes to align, but then the lower holes would put the screws too close to the edge of the wood frame. Instead, I centered - by feel - to the most optimal positioning and got this positioning result.

I prepped the holes and epoxied them.

I'm feeling really good about these various epoxy repairs, and I'm confident. Worst case scenario? They will fail, and I'll do something else. ;)

Now - it is to finish the masking. Continue work on windows, doors, hatches in between times, finish the exterior prep - then paint.
I'm getting close to finding a good source for butyl tape! Back in the beginning, I bought two rolls from the local RV joint (the same stuff they use in their repair shop). After learning more since then, I've discovered what I bought was white, easily breakable when stretching, pretty dry (even when first purchased) and is labeled putty tape. That's NON-PREFERABLE. I'm looking for a much stickier, grabbier, darker gray, stretchable without easy breakage - sort of stuff - and at LEAST labeled "butyl tape" instead of "putty tape".
Leaning toward this stuff.
Dicor Butyl Tape
If for only three reasons.
1-The Dicor name brand.
2-The reviews in general.
3-The top-rated review (first in the list) provided by someone who rebuilt a 1972 camper and seems to know what she's talking about.
But I'll take other suggestions. :)

The overall width is very close to the 7/8" described in the seal ad found in the link provided by ticki.
On mine, the angle is somewhat different, or more angle - and the one in the link may well not seal properly due to the angle alone.
Another difficulty is the bulb. On mine, the bulb seals the upper window pane frame against the main window frame, when the window is closed.
My dimensions. Bulb outer diameter 1/4" or maybe as much as 5/16". Flap width from beginning of angle break-over 3/4". Metal channel for tee is 5/32" (so maybe 1/8"). First L width less than 1/8", second L width about 5/32".
I saw one profile over the past week or so online that resembled this piece. But it was a little different in angles and perhaps sizes. I didn't bookmark it and can't find it now.
Yesterday was a "this and that" day.
First, cleaned the shop back up and regrouped; hauled firewood.
Then I did the camper interior cleanup. The high-gloss poly finish on everything is really working out as I expected and desired. Brush attachment on the shop vac horizontal and vertical surfaces (this stuff is from the previous electric sanding work).
Did almost the entire interior; didn't take long.


Then wet/damp wipe-down with rag and soapy warm-water bucket.

That was a lot more debris than after a normal trip would have. And the cleaning was of less finesse than we'd do after a normal trip. But, it shows the ease of cleaning. Now I could get up on the bunk and roll around. Which I did more than ten times yesterday as I eye-ball aligned the interior frames to prep them for receiving new screw holes in new wood, and bits of adjustment in existing wood.
Now that I'm awaiting gasket rubber, I simply fastened this frame back together temporarily to mark placements (original exterior screw holes).

Leaving this sort of arrangement to mask against.

It is dark and cozy inside (which is what we were after, and the small lens camera exposure on the phone makes it darker than reality, just due to the bright light coming though the window, but you can kind of see the cream-colored frames in place here.

I need some more masking supplies, but I got most of it up.
Also, I did the epoxy thing again; these two places.
First - where that original factory worker I call "Wild-Router Man" made his mark.

I cut out the foil/bubble wrap, jagged the edge and provided space under and above with some depression to give the patch a little depth and backing. Did the full sanding and cleaning as before. Then used the wax paper trick again.

And - there was this ONE problematic window where the skin-stretch wasn't optimal to the wood frame (driver-side bunk). The rough opening was already tall enough; couldn't go more by sanding a portion of the upper wood (which due to its angle from the beginning of the roof-rounding would have been easy, and in fact WAS done slightly on the galley side window opening). I could have gone as little as maybe 1/8" to get those upper holes to align, but then the lower holes would put the screws too close to the edge of the wood frame. Instead, I centered - by feel - to the most optimal positioning and got this positioning result.

I prepped the holes and epoxied them.

I'm feeling really good about these various epoxy repairs, and I'm confident. Worst case scenario? They will fail, and I'll do something else. ;)

Now - it is to finish the masking. Continue work on windows, doors, hatches in between times, finish the exterior prep - then paint.
I'm getting close to finding a good source for butyl tape! Back in the beginning, I bought two rolls from the local RV joint (the same stuff they use in their repair shop). After learning more since then, I've discovered what I bought was white, easily breakable when stretching, pretty dry (even when first purchased) and is labeled putty tape. That's NON-PREFERABLE. I'm looking for a much stickier, grabbier, darker gray, stretchable without easy breakage - sort of stuff - and at LEAST labeled "butyl tape" instead of "putty tape".
Leaning toward this stuff.
Dicor Butyl Tape
If for only three reasons.
1-The Dicor name brand.
2-The reviews in general.
3-The top-rated review (first in the list) provided by someone who rebuilt a 1972 camper and seems to know what she's talking about.
But I'll take other suggestions. :)
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