I don't know the name of the windows used on Lil' Queeny, but I suspect "Hehr Philips", as there is spotty reference to same and there are identifying parts that are used on Hehr, Philips, and Jalousie descriptions in various online places. But my windows have no manufacturer labeling, just the part labels on the crank and some crank associated pieces.
The same type windows are used on many different manufacturer's trailers and campers of the era, and are quite distinguishable by the built-in squared upper frame piece that acts as kind of a water run-off diverter, eliminating the need for the "eyebrows" placed above many previous window versions, but often still found above the entry doors of these campers.
I've found I like the Vintage Trailer Supply web-site and company for a number of reasons, while at the same time, I hope they will correct/improve some descriptions of some parts, as I'll describe next, and as I'll add to my online reviews for their parts.
This is their
Window Hardware link.
This is their
Window Gasket link.
There are three types of gasket on my windows.
- Upper flap/bulb for sealing the crank-open window aluminum edge against the aluminum mounted frame for each top opening window.
- Side and Bottom rubber J gasket for sealing the crank-open window aluminum edges against the mounted aluminum frame pieces.
- U-Shaped window glass/pane channel gasket for sealing each glass pane in the aluminum frame pieces around each pane.
Here is a picture of the last - the U-Shaped piece that I ordered and will now return. On the right is my original, on the left is what I ordered, based on web-site descriptions of each of the three available.
Based on sizes listed, I felt I could try this one, and trim the top of the U to fit my needs. But the gasket is made for a 1/8" glass panel and my panes are 3/16". I wish VTS would add that fact to their online description. I think they also have a mislabeled height of that gasket, indicating it is a little bit shorter that it is, but I got lost in the weeds over that so am uncertain.
I re-ordered, after speaking with a sales person, and bought
this stuff.
I wanted to order it originally, but I knew it would not work because it is labeled 1/8" by 1/8" and mine is 1/4" by 1/4". It also isn't labeled for what size glass panel it fits.
In my telephone call, we were able to verify, it is actually NOT 1/8" but MUCH closer to 1/4". And the kicker was the "sales help glass channel measurement" which was described over the telephone as "between 1/8" and almost 1/4" (that would be 3/16" - my size). So we will see when it gets here. Again, I'd like to see VTS correct the size shown, and add that it is for a 3/16" glass pane. And perhaps refund me some of the back and forth shipping charges. But, at the end of the day, I'm glad they are there.
The top pieces that I need (for complete rebuild, but not in function, as mine still work), I still haven't found. Here's another shot of that from the other-day-ago.
And how they appear on the window.
The third pieces, are the Jalousie J seal. My original on the right, the new product on the left.
You'll note the color difference. Not at all an issue. Next note the size of the Tee that slides into the retention channel. The new gasket Tee is much larger, changing the installation from an easy slide in, to a challenge. However, there are some tricks I'll describe.
For the J seal, there are two applications: the bottom edge of each crank-out window pane, and the sides of the mounted window frames where the crank unit and opposing pivot point mount. The easiest of the two types is the mounted side frames. Those first.
Here's a completed one, needing a slight trim, but even so, the gasket hangs out and folds over and is held tight by the additional window framing members all screwed together.
First I cut a piece the same length as the framing, adding about an inch for each side.
With an un-blemished channel, it is fairly easy to force a start. Once started, gripping the end between thumb and fore-finger, just pull and stretch while helping into the channel with the other hand.
Once stretched kind of evenly in the channel and out both ends, working from the center, gather some back, first left then right, until it feels like a good balance between "stretched and gathered". Hopefully you are approximating the hang-overs with about how much extra you started with.
The new gasket has replaced these.
Upon assembly, I trimmed each excess to about 3/4".
The bottom aluminum frames around the glass panes were a much different matter.
Here is a completed one on the left, and awaiting gasket on the right.
First I had to pry/grind/cut/lift the "factory crimp" from each side, which is about 1" inboard from the gasket ends. Depending on how deep the crimp had been made, I was able to use a combination of tiny, then larger, screw drivers to pry it away, or a Dremel tool grinder tip or cut-off wheel to remove crimp metal.
Then it was a matter of cleaning out the channel for smoothest insert, with a tiny file, or very thin Dremel cut-off wheel. Even so, such channel blemishing, not to mention the longer distances, made the insertion task much harder.
I tired the "soapy solution" trick. It didn't help. It just made the gasket harder to grip with thumb and forefinger.
I enlisted DW for assistance on the first two "shorter windows" (small back-wall galley) and the first one of the two "longer windows" (larger side-wall galley) pieces. By the second of the longer (forth overall), I tried a new technique, which I highly recommend - stretching considerably - and was able to do that last one alone.
That's another difference between old and new gaskets. This new stuff is very stretchable. I feared breaking it, or ripping off a small end piece. It never happened, except there was slight damage at one end on one install where I was gripping with needle-nose pliers. I discarded that piece and started over, as I had started that one as a "cut to exact length".
I recommend cutting a little longer than needed, then trimming at the end.
Here you see the end of the channel, prepped with the previous mentioned tools to make the channel as ready as possible.
Next the rubber started.
Then you just have to grip tight on one end and pull while with the other hand, directing the rubber at a good angle to enter and remain in the channel, both at the beginning, and at the two inboard crimp regions.
At times it jumps out, and you back it off using balanced stretching technique, slide forward again, and just kind of get the feel. In the process, the rubber is stretched and pulled evenly out each side.
Then starting in the center, use thumb and fore-finger to gather it back opposite of stretched, getting a good feel of balanced between "gathered and stretched".
Then, I used regular pliers or diagonal pliers (dikes) to give a bit of crimp back at each end and at the sides of the original factory crimps.
And again, you end up with this.
Then I took the three small windows apart (bath, upper cab-over side windows) and replaced the rubber on these, leaving the crank out windows separate from the main frames on each.
Then I assembled the main frames of the bigger units, and set everything aside in it's own staging location.
Now - while awaiting the arrival of the U-Shape gasket, I'll tackle that last large dining room window! Is that a light I see at the end of the tunnel?
