I have some extra window parts from my donor camper, including glass. That's really neat!
For example, I have - I think - two, maybe three panes for those small bath and cab-over windows, and they also happen to be the same size as my rear-wall galley window.
Another neat factor - the large donor camper dinette window is the same size as used for the small 8' camper we see in Lil' Queeny. However, that donor had one full sheet of Plexiglas replacing two crank-out panes on the one side, and a piece of Plexiglas in one of the two remaining crank outs, so that leaves only one extra glass pane for the dinette. But that is nice insurance.
I'll store these extra panes in a safe place for future possible need.
The side-wall galley panes are also the same size as half the dinette. Too cool, as the longer galley side-wall window found on the donor camper was a third size, not even found on Lil' Queeny. But of course I'll save those panes and parts as well.
While assembling the galley windows, I ran across a broken "nylon torque-bar bearing" (pivot point opposite the crank). Also, the crank had a bulge in the metal like there was some internal damage. I was able to secure replacements from my "extra parts".
I assembled those galley window frames and set them aside with the prepped parts for installing U-shape glass channel rubber (which is expected to arrive today).
Then moved on to cleaning up that last window, the big dinette!
Here are some before pictures on it.
This shows the whole window untouched except, some early-on test polishing in the foreground (pre-disassembling plan) to see what I was up against.
Look at that weathering and oxidation build-up!
This is the spot at the bottom of the framing (looking up-side down) in between the dinette left and right panes. See the darker grey caulking? That is what I'm finding on some windows in some places. Perhaps from the factory, perhaps PO applied. I can see the advantage, but haven't yet decided on what I will do. But for now, the old stuff is all coming off.
Another area with the same.
And even some at the top area under the weather flap, where it sagged and ran a bit.
This window also had more than it's fair share of broken pieces.
Another broken pivot point.
An owner designed and built pivot point for the other side.
A broken torque bar mounted lever that moves the missing link and the metal bar above it. Look at the previous picture to see an example of what's missing.
And here is a close-up shot to see why the Jalousie J-seal rubber gets damaged by the window hardware.
I think I'll hit those metal edges with a little emery cloth before assembly and running these things into my new seals.
I also bought these at Vintage Trailer Supply - they came yesterday.
Nylon Torque Bar BearingThey sell three sizes, but I measured close, and they match exact. I bought four, two for this dinette window, one for another I know has a crack on one small cab-over window, and an extra.
Since dis-assembly of the big dinette window, I have since cleaned and polished all parts except the 16 small aluminum frames pieces around the glass - that's for today.
In that process I discovered best practices after all the things I've tried.
- Use steel scraper and pocket knife and small pointed steel tool to remove the caulking.
- Use nylon brush, toothbrush, etc. for removing loose dirt, spider webs, mud-dauber junk, etc.
- Use up to 150 grit dry sandpaper for the first initial oxidation removal.
- Use 220 grit sandpaper.
- Use 320 grit wet sandpaper.
- Use 600 grit wet sandpaper.
- Use brown compound and cotton buffing wheels.
- Use white compound and cotton buffing wheels.
- Final burnish and even-out with 0000 steel wool (leave off this step if you prefer more mirror like finish).
I also mounted the bench grinder backwards on the table saw and worked the top of the wheel while pointing it out the door. It helped with the long parts on the large dinette window top and bottom pieces (in my bench mounted area there wasn't room to do a long piece), but over all I dis-like the top of the wheel use for lack of control. On the normal bench mount, I am more able to control the piece under the wheel with one hand used as a secure rest against the bench top.
