This is the entry door frame, left side (door latch side) - what's called the door jamb in a home center door. This view shows the manufacturer prepped dead-bolt strike-plate area.
Yeah, unused for the past 49 years. I found the double pre-drilled holes interesting. The screw spacing is 2" center to center. I guess if you are "off" there's about 1/16" adjustment available up or down.
Here's the strike-plate that I found on Lil' Queeny's "latch" area (the door-knob portion), installed and ready to use. Note a couple of things. First is the half-moon wear on the left vertical edge of the opening. Second is the lower mounting screw hole missing shoulder material for the screw head.
Let's talk first about that half-moon wear. When you look at the door-knob side of the latch mechanism, you'll see the "plunger" that fits into this latch hole. Along with the plunger, on many lock-sets, you'll find a small additional plunger, along with the main big one. I had to Google what it is called, and what it is for.
For example, when you set the strike-plate depth, is the small plunger supposed to come into the large plunger hole? Or - is the small plunger supposed to remain compressed, in order for the lock to do it's job? I didn't know.
Come to find out, the small one is called a "dead-lock plunger". It IS supposed to extend into the main plunger's hole in the door jamb. Its purpose is to prevent a "credit-card" style of lock picking, where you slide a credit card through the area and release the big plunger.
(Edit - this take is wrong. See correct use in the next post)
So yes, when you shut your door, you should listen for the "double-click".
Was my strike plate really worn? Or did a previous owner file it to let the plunger work? Or did they come like that prior to a cheaper version of parts contract manufacturing in more recent years?
The second thing I point out is the retaining screw lower hole. Compared to the upper hole, you can plainly see the screw head shoulder is missing in portions of the lower hole. That prevented the plate from tightening down and staying put. It threw off the door latching.
This shows the old plate along with a new plate. Note on the new plate, a bevel on the one edge. That was the first grinding on the bench grinder, to allow the plate to sit flat against the door jamb surface.
But on the old plate, you can clearly see the missing metal shoulder where the screw head pulls it tight against the jamb.
So I required two new plates. About $5 a piece at the RV parts store.
The inside edge of the plate (camper interior side) rests on a raised portion of the jamb frame. That's why I beveled. I ground the bevel as much as possible, (to allow a flat install for the piece), but as little as possible to prevent reduction of strength to the piece.
This shows better, the angle and amount ground off.
All this latch effort was necessary, in order to get both the door to shut right (meaning tight), and to get the new, slightly larger profiled "bulb type weather seal rubber" to properly contact and seal between the door and the jamb.
I think the camper's back wall is slightly out of "flat". Meaning the bottom of the door doesn't press in as tight to the frame as the rest of the door. But with my latch adjustments, I think I have it sealed. We'll find out on the first dusty road we go down.
The adjustments were fine-tuned (now that I had a latch plate whose screws would hold it in place), and by sitting flat on the jamb frame, the screw wasn't tempted to break out the shoulder on the new plate.
In fine tuning, I reached a setting that allowed the door to latch (main plunger only) when barely pushed closed, like you'd do when you're back and forth getting marshmallows, and catsup, or burger buns and plates, back and forth out of the camper and trying to keep out the flies or mosquitoes.
But when locking the door from inside or out, a slight push/pull a little tighter, lets the dead-lock plunger extend, and the dead-bolt portion of the lock (above the door-knob) then easily slides in and out of it's latch plate.
What all of that means to me is, security is working as smoothly as intended, without ever a need to slam the door, bending and breaking parts in the process (I hate slamming doors). I wanted a tight seal when desired, and an easy latching when needed. No slamming. I think we got it.
The last thing to mention is, while we were working out the latching, closing and sealing, I changed out the lock-set. I'm sure I'll find another use for the brass one somewhere, sometime, but for us, the brass just wasn't working on this area. On went a brushed stainless-steel finish for the "aluminum look".
I also removed the brass washers from the door hold open parts (plunger on the camper and cup on the door),which had been placed prior, to help try and pull the brass knob colors into the aluminum of everything else back here. It wasn't working, so it got altered back.
On the inside, the "antique brass plate" and brass handle of the hold-open interior side (which used to be big bolts and nuts) was bothering me too. I cut a piece of "finished paneling" into a plate (to hide sheet metal holes) in an effort to provide a sort of transition from the silver colors found on the door, to the brass and wood found inside the camper.
We think it looks better, but my jury is still out. This thing may still get some attention or modification.
One thing is certain - I like the interior look of the lock-set much better than the previous one in brass.
