Today: Front wall arch molding installation.
These arch moldings (front and rear) were constructed back in
May. Been laying around since. Finally got around to getting them on the camper.
Between work reported on yesterday, and work being reported today, I did quite a bit of butyl tape installation molding on Tow-Mater - both windows and original style (smaller) edge molding.
Through it all, I've been working under the general provision of "more is better". In other words, two layers of the thin tape on a single run, or three, sometimes four, where it's a bigger molding, like an L shape profile that rounds an edge (wall/ceiling).
Doing it that way gives me GREAT ooze, which tells me we're seeing some effective sealing coverage underneath. It also creates a LOT of waste, which get's removed and stacked on my coffee can lid for use elsewhere.
And - I've been able to re-use that stuff too! Mostly. But just the other day, I saw it move. Like it's coming to life or something. Remember that HBO Muppets show where the trash heap came alive? Or was that H.R. Puffnstuf? Time killers at best, but wow, that junk was AWFUL! I'm sorry. I know you just recently got it out of your head.
So on this left camper bunk side (street-side) arch, I think I used two layers on the flat, and one folded layer on the shorter corner edge. Once again, applied directly to the molding, then screwed onto the camper wall surface.
It worked, okay. I guess.
Acceptable ooze. But it's the corrugation that has to be examined closely.
I kind of screwed up and used the #8 screws (like the windows because of 50 year old holes). This is NEW wood, and I found #6x3/4" a great choice for the molding on these new wood areas. But - too bad, so sad - the front arch is in #8x1". Wall thickness allows 1", but just barely.
But on the right side (curb-side) I tried a "fill in the blanks" method.
These are partially folded.
In both cases, LOTS of rubber mallet whacking. Trying to seat the metal into the butyl tape bed. From one end to the other, hammering, and adding one or two screws at a time. Getting better, more confident, to where you can skip some holes, get it held tight, then come back and fill in the blanks.
Another thing I learned on Tow-Mater, was the "probable", original technique to use (which likely gets taught at the factory, and then immediately forgotten by MOST workers). Maybe.
Here it is. (And this is just my CURRENT opinion).
1. Lay the butyl tape out on the siding area requiring seal, e.g. roof sheet metal folded over and stapled to the wall siding. So - staples and edge of the metal. That's the spot needing the seal.
2. Press the tape bed securely into the siding for definite siding contact. Use clean fingers (or dirty is okay if it's not a lot coming off on the tape. The tape will accept some contamination, but keep it minimal). Don't use hand lotion (probably) just before doing such. If you're a shop worker (or Domestic Goddess with hands in the water all the time), it's unlikely "natural oils" on you hand will be problematic. If you're like a model, or a rich, lazy guy, your hands MIGHT be too soft - and too oily. So just pay someone. Hopefully they know how. If not, pay someone else. Again.
3. Press the molding end into the butyl bed and tap it into position firmly, as you install screws from one end to the other. Tighten screws until the butyl near the screw is observed squeezing out slightly. Then move on. I use a power driver for this.
4. Once completely up, come back and torque in the screws a little to get even squeeze and strong molding connection to the camper. I use a hand driver for this.
5. Come along NOW with a steel (sometimes rubber mallet) hammer and tap the form-able aluminum band edge BETWEEN screws, back into the same straight shape of a long, unmolested molding. Just slight tapping will sink those parts into the butyl, creating a straighter looking molding, and a better seal into the tape.
Yes - this creates hammer marks. Since doing Tow-Mater, I'm less concerned about "perfect polish look", and more interested in "effective edge seal look".
These next photos reveal such marks. I've been able to brush (small wire brush) and steel wool these marks out somewhat.
See that front wall siding where I got too western that day I was stapling to Pink Floyd? That'll get rain gutter.
Marvel Left.
Marvel Right.
That technique described above? I didn't use until the REAR wall arch molding. Tomorrow's post.
