Forum Discussion
Dave_Pete
May 26, 2015Explorer II
Well today is the day, the final installment of the exterior plywood! It feels almost as good as the final installment of a car loan or a house mortgage.
And actually this isn't the final installment of the installation because there are still parts to cut and fit and install on this last installation. But it is the last exterior plywood board being installed, so theoretically it could be called a last installment of the final exterior plywood. I just like saying installment. ;)
I stapled on the gimp and set the staples with a hammer.
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And here's our last look of the open ventilation design once considered. I had also thought the "hood-scoop look" might make her look cooler and perhaps faster, but there are drawbacks and we decided upon enclosure as the best option.
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It took more effort than I thought it might, and I struggled with it for quite some time, but eventually, and after trying a couple of different approaches, I got it inserted into position. It was tight! The extra gimp/staple thickness had added to it's dimensions. I'm glad I had considered that when originally sizing the board; I couldn't have made it 1/16" larger!
I had again placed the board stopper at top with the clamps. As it turned out, that was unnecessary.
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Here's how the centers lined up, top and bottom.
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Regarding screw placement, I wasn't placing screws along a line 3/8" from the plywood edge here at the bottom, because I had that unique floor design. To locate screw placement, first I marked along the front every three inches. Then I drew a diagram to determine how far from the edge, which ended up being 1.25".
Here's what I chose. Note the screw first goes through the front 3/4" plywood and the head seats squarely into that surface. Next the screw enters the 1x4 sandwiched in the bunk between the two layers of 1/4" plywood making up the interior and exterior surfaces.
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As opposed to this sort of style which would not give me a smooth screw head on the surface.
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Down below there was this sort of bow out, due in part to the steamed bend not being quite far enough, and to the natural bow of the plywood sheet.
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The bow was easily pulled in with hand pressure and body weight while driving a screw with the other hand.
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After making all my screw placement marks, and halfway across one side pre-drilling, I remembered I had marked - on the bottom of the bunk - the ends of the 1x4 lengthwise runners, the joists - for want of a better term. I wanted to place two screws into the ends of each and had forgotten to this point. That's why on subsequent pictures, you'll see where I missed my pencil marks as I pre-drilled, so as to accommodate that original intent.
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I pre-drilled across the bottom edge, with a small bit, then a larger bit in the first material so as to let the screw suck it into the second material. In this case I didn't need to countersink.
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Then it was move up top. Also you'll see in the next pictures, I had cut off the remaining rib lengths, and along the way used the belt sander to fine tune the angle on the ribs and roof boards that needed it.
And in this case I did countersink the holes, as I was drawing into weaker plywood edge material, again at the 3/8" from the edge, which started out as measured marks, but became "eye-balling it" by the end. You'll also note I had to drive the screws at an angle to match the front wall, and that alone required the countersink.
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I still need to size and cut the bridging pieces, and I'm thinking I'll use a little wider than the normal 1.5" of a 1x2, but haven't yet fully examined that course of action.
From the inside.
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I crawled up on the bunk and laid down, both on the inside edge and then rolled over to the outside, even in spite of the bridge pieces not yet installed, or the added strength of the sheet metal folded, stapled and screwed in place. I was favorably impressed - no creaks, no sag. It just felt firm and secure!
And then, when standing again on the outside, just looking at the result, I though I heard in a sweet, little, female voice, "I am Batman", but maybe it was just in my head, that happens sometimes.
And actually this isn't the final installment of the installation because there are still parts to cut and fit and install on this last installation. But it is the last exterior plywood board being installed, so theoretically it could be called a last installment of the final exterior plywood. I just like saying installment. ;)
I stapled on the gimp and set the staples with a hammer.

And here's our last look of the open ventilation design once considered. I had also thought the "hood-scoop look" might make her look cooler and perhaps faster, but there are drawbacks and we decided upon enclosure as the best option.

It took more effort than I thought it might, and I struggled with it for quite some time, but eventually, and after trying a couple of different approaches, I got it inserted into position. It was tight! The extra gimp/staple thickness had added to it's dimensions. I'm glad I had considered that when originally sizing the board; I couldn't have made it 1/16" larger!
I had again placed the board stopper at top with the clamps. As it turned out, that was unnecessary.

Here's how the centers lined up, top and bottom.


Regarding screw placement, I wasn't placing screws along a line 3/8" from the plywood edge here at the bottom, because I had that unique floor design. To locate screw placement, first I marked along the front every three inches. Then I drew a diagram to determine how far from the edge, which ended up being 1.25".
Here's what I chose. Note the screw first goes through the front 3/4" plywood and the head seats squarely into that surface. Next the screw enters the 1x4 sandwiched in the bunk between the two layers of 1/4" plywood making up the interior and exterior surfaces.

As opposed to this sort of style which would not give me a smooth screw head on the surface.

Down below there was this sort of bow out, due in part to the steamed bend not being quite far enough, and to the natural bow of the plywood sheet.


The bow was easily pulled in with hand pressure and body weight while driving a screw with the other hand.


After making all my screw placement marks, and halfway across one side pre-drilling, I remembered I had marked - on the bottom of the bunk - the ends of the 1x4 lengthwise runners, the joists - for want of a better term. I wanted to place two screws into the ends of each and had forgotten to this point. That's why on subsequent pictures, you'll see where I missed my pencil marks as I pre-drilled, so as to accommodate that original intent.

I pre-drilled across the bottom edge, with a small bit, then a larger bit in the first material so as to let the screw suck it into the second material. In this case I didn't need to countersink.

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Then it was move up top. Also you'll see in the next pictures, I had cut off the remaining rib lengths, and along the way used the belt sander to fine tune the angle on the ribs and roof boards that needed it.
And in this case I did countersink the holes, as I was drawing into weaker plywood edge material, again at the 3/8" from the edge, which started out as measured marks, but became "eye-balling it" by the end. You'll also note I had to drive the screws at an angle to match the front wall, and that alone required the countersink.

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I still need to size and cut the bridging pieces, and I'm thinking I'll use a little wider than the normal 1.5" of a 1x2, but haven't yet fully examined that course of action.
From the inside.


I crawled up on the bunk and laid down, both on the inside edge and then rolled over to the outside, even in spite of the bridge pieces not yet installed, or the added strength of the sheet metal folded, stapled and screwed in place. I was favorably impressed - no creaks, no sag. It just felt firm and secure!
And then, when standing again on the outside, just looking at the result, I though I heard in a sweet, little, female voice, "I am Batman", but maybe it was just in my head, that happens sometimes.
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