1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod - 5. Propane
This is Part 5. of our 1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod, the subject of which is "Propane". Other parts are linked below. 1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod - 1. Acquisition & Evaluation 1968 Travel Queen Res...
Forum Discussion
I got a PM from a real nice fella. He described that metal slide on the burner for air/gas adjustment as an "air register", and had also heard them called dampers and shutters (regarding yesterday's post). His application was in a similar, by much more complex professional capacity. It did get my curiosity up, so I took a moment and looked in my Instruction Manual for the range and found where it is called an "air mixer", on the top burners anyway. I expect there's a number of terms for these on various appliances, all doing the same thing, adjusting the amount of air in the combustion.
So I got the door installed on the range - that is to say the inner panel of the door. Had to kind of re-figure out the spring and bracket and hinge parts you know, because of that whole memory thing.
It's kind of a cruel joke when you think about it. You get wisdom just at about the same time as you lose memory! But at least we lose bravado too. Don't have to carry THAT around forever. Well - okay, maybe a few have to; at least there's evidence to that supposition.
Anyway - got the inner door on and DW came out to "see my progress". And you know me, I was only too happy to show off a little to her. I gave her the "what for" on the hinge springs, and on the brackets, and on the hinge pins and the inner door. And I started explaining how the insulation and window fit along with the outer door panel and stuff like that and she said, "is that door on backwards"?
I looked and said, "Why yes - Yes it is!" And she just looked at me like there was more to say, so I said, "you have to make sure it fits both ways - something about proper sealing", and I quickly ushered her back into the house.
So whenever you get the door installed correctly, it looks something like this.
When I took it all apart, the metal brackets fastened to the door panel, were somewhat rusty and one was loose, causing the door swing to feel wonky. So I cleaned up those and tightened the fasteners down good.
I tried the brackets - attached to the springs - in a couple of different ways, finally determining a real good door swing in this configuration. And then there's the metal cover over the spring assembly that keeps the works away from the insulation.
The whole thing is one of those perfect examples of how upon disassembly it all makes sense, and you know you can remember how it goes back together, and so you don't need to take pictures of THAT too.
And YOU thought I was taking so many pictures just for YOU! Ha!
And with the cover over the spring.
Incidentally, those very bottom screws on the door brackets (third screw down) are specialty hinge pin screws, with an un-threaded shoulder that allows for the swing.
Then I fastened the outer sides and back panel together and placed the insulation around the inner walls, and carefully slid the cover over, tucking the insulation in just right and keeping it as "fluffed" as possible.
And here's a view from the bottom at this stage.
Then I got labels attached. I used a suitable sized pop-rivet for the serial number plate, but reused these "press in" rivets for the model number plate.
And started the top assembly.
While doing all the cleaning, scraping, sanding, painting - you take screws out. And you put them in logical places where you "know you can find them" when it's time to put THAT piece on. So up until now I couldn't find the outer-door panel-screws, but then did. So no better time than the present right?
The four in the foreground attach from inner door panel, into outer door panel. The machine screws with fiber washers above that attach from inside the outer door panel, into the over-door handle.
Like this.
The Holiday emblem...
...attaches like this.
Incidentally, that nut bracket sticking up right there is where the metal screws secure from the inner door panel.
You can see all four here.
Which receive the threaded screws coming from the inside of the oven like this.
And when you place the window prior to the insulation, make sure you get it right side up and not inside out, so you get this from the outside.
Okay so that's on.
And that leaves these...
...which are pretty nasty. And these which have been cleaned up already.
And these (also pretty nasty) back and bottom pieces.
So I got the two "back" pieces prepped and painted and installed.
And I knew I was going to run out of copper paint. So while the back parts dried, DW and I ran over to Walmart and discovered they only have high-temp in black, so while she got groceries, I went next door to the home center, where I had taken their last two cans of copper just days ago, and had to choose between black or white. White!? On a BBQ? I mean on headers sure, but an outdoor grill?
Anyway, I didn't want to run clear over to the other side of town to see if they had copper, and I thought, well white bottom pieces makes sense. Close to the white primer wings and under cabinet stuff. White reflects heat and black absorbs. Two reasons, good enough!
Oven venting air flow goes from the bottom front of the oven, through those holes, between the bigger white bottom cover and the inner floor panel of the oven (no insulation needed on bottom I guess due to venting design and convection reasons), then up the back corner INTO the oven interior, where it vents out the upper top back wall hole into the chimney thing on the back of the oven, which in turn is covered by a second panel over it. That vented air continues up through the grill work of the rear chrome flange piece.
And there's a secondary external venting of airflow through the feet (hat channels) which, in the back, are directed upward INTO the secondary cover on the range back, which also vents out the chrome flange grill work.
Time to work on those nasty chrome mounting flanges.
So I got the door installed on the range - that is to say the inner panel of the door. Had to kind of re-figure out the spring and bracket and hinge parts you know, because of that whole memory thing.
It's kind of a cruel joke when you think about it. You get wisdom just at about the same time as you lose memory! But at least we lose bravado too. Don't have to carry THAT around forever. Well - okay, maybe a few have to; at least there's evidence to that supposition.
Anyway - got the inner door on and DW came out to "see my progress". And you know me, I was only too happy to show off a little to her. I gave her the "what for" on the hinge springs, and on the brackets, and on the hinge pins and the inner door. And I started explaining how the insulation and window fit along with the outer door panel and stuff like that and she said, "is that door on backwards"?
I looked and said, "Why yes - Yes it is!" And she just looked at me like there was more to say, so I said, "you have to make sure it fits both ways - something about proper sealing", and I quickly ushered her back into the house.
So whenever you get the door installed correctly, it looks something like this.
When I took it all apart, the metal brackets fastened to the door panel, were somewhat rusty and one was loose, causing the door swing to feel wonky. So I cleaned up those and tightened the fasteners down good.
I tried the brackets - attached to the springs - in a couple of different ways, finally determining a real good door swing in this configuration. And then there's the metal cover over the spring assembly that keeps the works away from the insulation.
The whole thing is one of those perfect examples of how upon disassembly it all makes sense, and you know you can remember how it goes back together, and so you don't need to take pictures of THAT too.
And YOU thought I was taking so many pictures just for YOU! Ha!
And with the cover over the spring.
Incidentally, those very bottom screws on the door brackets (third screw down) are specialty hinge pin screws, with an un-threaded shoulder that allows for the swing.
Then I fastened the outer sides and back panel together and placed the insulation around the inner walls, and carefully slid the cover over, tucking the insulation in just right and keeping it as "fluffed" as possible.
And here's a view from the bottom at this stage.
Then I got labels attached. I used a suitable sized pop-rivet for the serial number plate, but reused these "press in" rivets for the model number plate.
And started the top assembly.
While doing all the cleaning, scraping, sanding, painting - you take screws out. And you put them in logical places where you "know you can find them" when it's time to put THAT piece on. So up until now I couldn't find the outer-door panel-screws, but then did. So no better time than the present right?
The four in the foreground attach from inner door panel, into outer door panel. The machine screws with fiber washers above that attach from inside the outer door panel, into the over-door handle.
Like this.
The Holiday emblem...
...attaches like this.
Incidentally, that nut bracket sticking up right there is where the metal screws secure from the inner door panel.
You can see all four here.
Which receive the threaded screws coming from the inside of the oven like this.
And when you place the window prior to the insulation, make sure you get it right side up and not inside out, so you get this from the outside.
Okay so that's on.
And that leaves these...
...which are pretty nasty. And these which have been cleaned up already.
And these (also pretty nasty) back and bottom pieces.
So I got the two "back" pieces prepped and painted and installed.
And I knew I was going to run out of copper paint. So while the back parts dried, DW and I ran over to Walmart and discovered they only have high-temp in black, so while she got groceries, I went next door to the home center, where I had taken their last two cans of copper just days ago, and had to choose between black or white. White!? On a BBQ? I mean on headers sure, but an outdoor grill?
Anyway, I didn't want to run clear over to the other side of town to see if they had copper, and I thought, well white bottom pieces makes sense. Close to the white primer wings and under cabinet stuff. White reflects heat and black absorbs. Two reasons, good enough!
Oven venting air flow goes from the bottom front of the oven, through those holes, between the bigger white bottom cover and the inner floor panel of the oven (no insulation needed on bottom I guess due to venting design and convection reasons), then up the back corner INTO the oven interior, where it vents out the upper top back wall hole into the chimney thing on the back of the oven, which in turn is covered by a second panel over it. That vented air continues up through the grill work of the rear chrome flange piece.
And there's a secondary external venting of airflow through the feet (hat channels) which, in the back, are directed upward INTO the secondary cover on the range back, which also vents out the chrome flange grill work.
Time to work on those nasty chrome mounting flanges.
