1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod - 5. Propane
This is Part 5. of our 1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod, the subject of which is "Propane". Other parts are linked below. 1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod - 1. Acquisition & Evaluation 1968 Travel Queen Res...
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The range was in worse shape than I originally thought. That is to say: surface rust and peeling paint, very dirty and lots of crud left on after camping trips. The camper, coming from Oregon, a wet state, especially when compared to the drier Rocky Mountain regions I've lived most of my life (Wyoming, Utah), with its age and the humidity and lack of proper care in between camping trips - all took their toll.
But it does say something about the quality we used to build with here in America! "Durable goods" were called that for a reason. Our problems today are complex, and not easily resolved with something a simple as "Made in America", although that can be a piece to the puzzle. We've got major differences in our mind-sets now, than we had back then. The majority of Americans, and in fact modern humans, are so ill-affected by marketing and obtaining the latest and greatest, that we give no thought to consumption and we live with a "throw-away mentality", all while being depressed until the next purchase.
Back when it was just we few who did that, and we had all these new places for landfills, it wasn't such a big deal. But there's more in the world now who want the same thing, and fewer places to put the junk when we don't want to fix it, or if it ain't shiny enough anymore, and plastics still increase. Most of what we buy has built in failure, regardless of where it's made.
I've been no different, so I'm not preaching, but I - like you perhaps - try. It's not easy in a busy, modern world. But as DW says while we practice our (pretty well set-up actually) recycle center in our home (we were able to cancel garbage collection at about $50/month!), if everyone does just a little, and as they get better at it, they do more, it CAN make a difference. Just giving it some thought helps. And I've been surprised at just how little I really need, when I stop and think on it.
Re-use is at least PART of why I do this stuff. It's also very rewarding to see it in good condition again. So there's always that. :)
I got the chrome mounting flanges all installed, with those little spacer washers that act as separators between the chrome flanges and the metal exterior panels. That chrome is kind of rough, pitted in many places, upon close inspection.
Next I removed the outer back vent cover and ran fuel lines. On the left - the main fuel to the oven valve; on the right - the pilot light fuel supply. Note the upper hole (top right) it goes through. I discovered that is wrong, as it shortened the distance I needed. The correct hole is the smaller, lower hole nearby. Eventually it got swapped.
And with the outer cover back in place.
From inside, at the burner line/pilot light area.
And at the fuel valve.
Next I mounted the fuel manifold (across the top front, behind the face plate with the knob cutouts). That manifold includes the fuel inlet, three stove burner outlets with orifices, and the oven fuel outlet with manual shut-off valve. It was pretty good condition; I just cleaned it up some and left it unpainted. Nearby, is the Oven Control. It simply mounts to the face-plate.
Resulting in this. Note the adjustments for fine tuning the pilot flame settings. These are detailed in the manual I'll be posting soon. But one is for the small pilot light setting (providing "lo-temp), and the other is for a larger pilot light flame (that kicks things up a notch before fuel is sent out the fuel valve to the main burner. The company "Robertshaw" calls it the "Flame Master", and the main idea is to be able to keep the pilot lit, while reducing oven low temperatures, I guess.
And with the control knob.
Along with the control and thermostat valve comes the remote thermostat bulb, where it drops into the oven at this small rear hole right of center. There's two panels here to go through, so there is a bit of finagling to line it up right.
And is held in place in the little clip on the oven back wall.
Now the stove burners were the last of the nasty. The screws holding the burner to the cross bars were pretty bad and got replaced.
The spring clips were cleaned and reused.
Wire brushes, scraper, steel wool, wire wheel on the bench, etc. - new paint on the bars - and we get to here.
Notice too, how much better condition are the air mixers on these burners than we found on the oven burner tube.
These are burner or flame "diffusers". They sit on top of the burner and are held in place with the clips. One of my originals was a melted mass of aluminum. I found another and a couple of clips through 5 Star RV in Denver (a new and used RV super center which includes used parts).
And in place.
Next was that little red metal tape plate regarding the oven manual gas valve. I got it glued up and tape placed to let is set.
And installed the stove top.
Adjusted the hold-down pin/clip. It may need further attention, but seems to work for now.
Marvel right.
Marvel left.
Alright, let's bench test this thing.
But it does say something about the quality we used to build with here in America! "Durable goods" were called that for a reason. Our problems today are complex, and not easily resolved with something a simple as "Made in America", although that can be a piece to the puzzle. We've got major differences in our mind-sets now, than we had back then. The majority of Americans, and in fact modern humans, are so ill-affected by marketing and obtaining the latest and greatest, that we give no thought to consumption and we live with a "throw-away mentality", all while being depressed until the next purchase.
Back when it was just we few who did that, and we had all these new places for landfills, it wasn't such a big deal. But there's more in the world now who want the same thing, and fewer places to put the junk when we don't want to fix it, or if it ain't shiny enough anymore, and plastics still increase. Most of what we buy has built in failure, regardless of where it's made.
I've been no different, so I'm not preaching, but I - like you perhaps - try. It's not easy in a busy, modern world. But as DW says while we practice our (pretty well set-up actually) recycle center in our home (we were able to cancel garbage collection at about $50/month!), if everyone does just a little, and as they get better at it, they do more, it CAN make a difference. Just giving it some thought helps. And I've been surprised at just how little I really need, when I stop and think on it.
Re-use is at least PART of why I do this stuff. It's also very rewarding to see it in good condition again. So there's always that. :)
I got the chrome mounting flanges all installed, with those little spacer washers that act as separators between the chrome flanges and the metal exterior panels. That chrome is kind of rough, pitted in many places, upon close inspection.
Next I removed the outer back vent cover and ran fuel lines. On the left - the main fuel to the oven valve; on the right - the pilot light fuel supply. Note the upper hole (top right) it goes through. I discovered that is wrong, as it shortened the distance I needed. The correct hole is the smaller, lower hole nearby. Eventually it got swapped.
And with the outer cover back in place.
From inside, at the burner line/pilot light area.
And at the fuel valve.
Next I mounted the fuel manifold (across the top front, behind the face plate with the knob cutouts). That manifold includes the fuel inlet, three stove burner outlets with orifices, and the oven fuel outlet with manual shut-off valve. It was pretty good condition; I just cleaned it up some and left it unpainted. Nearby, is the Oven Control. It simply mounts to the face-plate.
Resulting in this. Note the adjustments for fine tuning the pilot flame settings. These are detailed in the manual I'll be posting soon. But one is for the small pilot light setting (providing "lo-temp), and the other is for a larger pilot light flame (that kicks things up a notch before fuel is sent out the fuel valve to the main burner. The company "Robertshaw" calls it the "Flame Master", and the main idea is to be able to keep the pilot lit, while reducing oven low temperatures, I guess.
And with the control knob.
Along with the control and thermostat valve comes the remote thermostat bulb, where it drops into the oven at this small rear hole right of center. There's two panels here to go through, so there is a bit of finagling to line it up right.
And is held in place in the little clip on the oven back wall.
Now the stove burners were the last of the nasty. The screws holding the burner to the cross bars were pretty bad and got replaced.
The spring clips were cleaned and reused.
Wire brushes, scraper, steel wool, wire wheel on the bench, etc. - new paint on the bars - and we get to here.
Notice too, how much better condition are the air mixers on these burners than we found on the oven burner tube.
These are burner or flame "diffusers". They sit on top of the burner and are held in place with the clips. One of my originals was a melted mass of aluminum. I found another and a couple of clips through 5 Star RV in Denver (a new and used RV super center which includes used parts).
And in place.
Next was that little red metal tape plate regarding the oven manual gas valve. I got it glued up and tape placed to let is set.
And installed the stove top.
Adjusted the hold-down pin/clip. It may need further attention, but seems to work for now.
Marvel right.
Marvel left.
Alright, let's bench test this thing.
