1975 Aljo trailer...

Beartoo wrote:
Your post caught my eye, in 1969 I had bought a ALJO trailer an lived in it for a year in Conn.. I pulled it with an old Ford pick up. I do know you will need a WD hitch.
As for wiring your umbilical cord go with the new 7 pin wiring harness.
Check Craigslist for a break controller , I sold a few of them on there. Maybe you should check for a large tranny cooler also.
Good Luck with your project.

Thank you for your advices, I will take to Craigslist to look for a break controller, I am always a little worried with used items unless I see it working ? . As far as the WD hitch, I understand the reasoning behind it; I just need to find out all the specs on the trailer so that I can make the proper calculations to see if I fully need it. The safe thing dictates that I do it but the use of it per year, cost and if the truck can safely tow it without it will make my decision on it soon.

spadoctor wrote:
you said you bought a battery for the brakes....that battery only powers the brakes IF the breakaway is pulled. The brakes are powered by the tow vehicle, that's why the round 7 pin (one leg is brakes. The fridge should be gas or 120 volt A/C electric. The furnace and fridge also need 12 DC electric to power the controls. Your lighting is 12 volt DC also. I use Thetford original in the black tank and nothing in the grey tank just a flush when done. Please do not take this the wrong way but from reading your post you have a lot lot lot to learn before you go out the first time. Please read and do google searches learning how everything works before you go out and have major problems on the road. Good luck

Yes thank you for the correction on the battery for the brakes, that’s correct. I did read on that part, I wish I would have bought a used battery instead of a brand new one for that, but I guess it needed it! I really need to find information on my trailer, I looked online but I only find little things on different site/comments, but most of the time not matching mine. No arm in your comment, I appreciate it and I want to be as prepared and informed as possible before getting on the road for sure. I will keep searching and also look into Thetford, thanks for the advice!

Caveman Charlie wrote:
You will need to add a 7 wire round plug to your tow vehicle. Best talk to a Toyota dealer mechanic as there is most likely a kit you can purchase to do this. It might be best to let the dealer do it but, that's up to you.
I like my Prodigy P3 brake controller. After you get the above 7 wire kit installed you can purchase a wiring kit with the brake controller that will allow you to plug it right in to the wires under the dash of your truck. After that your trailer brakes will work.
I have no idea on the wheel spacers.
With the battery installed and the propane tanks filled and turned on most of your TT systems should work. The only things that wont work are the things that run off of 110 volts. Those being the roof mount AC (if you have one) and the outlets inside the camper. If you want them to work you have to plug the trailer in. You will have to post the make and model of your fridge and water heater to get directions on lighting those. There are different ways for different units. If you get the make and model and do a internet search you might even get lucky and find the owners manuals on-line.

I asked at the Toyota dealership yesterday and they said that they do not carry anything like that for my truck since it is older. I did mention to him that they are the same all the way to 1998 but he told me the same… I will look into the Prodigy P3 and the wiring kit. I will post the make and models of the trailer as soon as I get to the trailer itself, most likely tomorrow or Thursday and I will also look on the internet as well once I have them but I have not have that luck yet on the internet lol.

westend wrote:
You will need to get a basic understanding of your 12V wiring, both inside the trailer and the functions of the truck to trailer umbilical.
12 Volt side of life
umbilical schematic diagrams
I don't know how you tested your truck's umbilical socket but you will need a path from the powered pins (tail, turn, brake, etc) to truck ground to establish a complete circuit. If you connect the truck ground to trailer frame, the trailer will then have a referenced ground to the truck for testing. You don't have to rewire the trailer but will need to know which trailer connected wire supports which function when upgrading to 7 pin. If you're lucky, the trailer wiring will follow conventional standard color codes.
Prodigy 2 or 3 are good brake controllers and there are a lot of happy users on this Forum, including me.

Thank you so much for the links they are very helpful. It looks like the conventional standard plug on the trailer, but I will double check on that. The trailer worked (as far as lights, turn signal, breaks etc when it came to my home with the original owner, just my truck is the problem with the plugs. Looks like Prodigy is the way to go, second advise towards it!

Thank you to all of you that answered, I will definitely post my findings as well as my progresses and keep the advises and the suggestions coming, I do appreciate it and I want to get it done for the season!