I didnt want to hi-jack the other 2 treads so I started another winterizing thread.....sorry fellas. I've read through the other treads plus my owners manuel but I'm still not comprehending it!!Other than my low point drain valves & FW tank drain valve under the camper the only other valves I have are 2 three way valves that go to the water heater.This is the where I'm get lost.......in the owners manual they talk about a "by-pass" valve for the water heater, that would mean a 3rd valve correct?So 1st question if I don't have a by-pass valve what do I do?2nd question: theres no "kit" with a separate hose on the water pump, do I disconnect the water hose from the FW tank, that should be the suction side I assume??Now the rest I think I understand but im gonna run it by you guys to make sure:All tanks are drainedinsert hose from water pump into antifreeze jugturn on pumpopen high point hot water faucet 1st,repeat on cold water faucet.repeat above process on showerthen flush toilet until antifreeze appears in bowlpour antifreeze into "p traps"last drain water heaterAm I correct??Theres no bathroom sink or outside shower.Thanks

http://rvparts.apachevillagerv.com/rv-parts/88-8843/Valterra-Products,-Inc%252e/Pump-Converter-Kit-Lead-Free-888843This is the bypass valve.

Hdultra8965 wrote:http://rvparts.apachevillagerv.com/rv-parts/88-8843/Valterra-Products,-Inc%252e/Pump-Converter-Kit-Lead-Free-888843This is the bypass valve.That's the kit that goes onto your water pump, not the hot water tank by-pass valve

Or....you could do like many of us have done forever without any freeze damage - and that's winterize by blowing out the lines with compressed air.Anti-freeze only in the traps.(Let the debate begin...again).

If you have a bypass on the hot water heater you will see this. Cold water enters tank at bottom and hot out the top. If you have a bypass on the water heater you will see a water line connecting top to bottom line. You will also see two or three valves. One at bottom between top to bottom line and tank. One on line between top and bottom lines. And possibly one at top line between tank and top to bottom line. If you do not see this valve there will be a check valve on top line hot outlet. Close lower valve, and top valve if you have one. Open valve on line between top and bottom lines. Then RV antifreeze will bypass tank. Take out drain plug at outside and open pressure release to drain tank. NOTE; On some newer RV's the bypass valves may be where the 'T' fitting would be at top and bottom lines. I think that you just turn valve in direction that you want antifreeze to go.I do not recommend compressed air unless you have a CLEAN air source, as there is rusty water and oil in compressor tanks that will get in your water lines.

The purpose of the WH bypass is to allow water to flow around the WH so you don't have to use 5-6 gallons of antifreeze to fill the WH. If you have the valves at the WH you probably have the bypass already. It's just a matter of figuring out the proper valve positions to bypass the WH.google "rv water heater bypass diagram" for several examples of differing installations.Looks like you got everything else right. Don't forget to run antifreeze thru any sink sprayers you might have.

1st time winterizing | Good Sam Community

westend
Explorer
Oct 05, 2015
tnrv'er wrote:
Well having a hard time posting pics. Just gonna call the manufacture tomorrow and see if they can help me.

Thank-you everyone for trying to help
Your pictures have to be uploaded to a hosting site like Imgur or Photobucket. You can then share the hosted pictures on this website.

If you could explain the location of the valves, you don't need to post a picture. Typical water heater bypass valves are close to the heater. One is on the lower cold water supply and another controls flow from the cold supply past the water heater and into the hot water supply pipe, hence, a bypass. Turn the valves and open a hot water faucet. If cold water comes out, you've bypassed the heater.
tnrv_er
Explorer II
Oct 05, 2015
Well having a hard time posting pics. Just gonna call the manufacture tomorrow and see if they can help me.

Thank-you everyone for trying to help
JimNH
Explorer
Oct 04, 2015
I just posted in the Hybrid forum on my experience. I bought a bypass kit and tried to install it today, but it did not fit with only the fittings provided...the hot water line would not reach once the new fittings were installed. I ended up blowing out the lines, draining the HW tank and pouring antifreeze in the traps for now. I will get some new fittings and try to install the kit again in the spring. Not a successful day, sigh...I should have done this with the camper sitting in my driveway where I could go to a camper store or Home Depot if needed, instead of at the campground 1.5 hours away on a Sunday where I did not have access to any plan B...
Bigbird65
Explorer
Oct 04, 2015
I must admit I have never heard of a tank type water heater without a bypass line and valve. That is nothing new for me because I learn something new every day. In this case it should only take 6 or 10 gallons of pink stuff, depending on the size of the tank, in the tank to start pushing it through the rest of the hot water lines. Once again, if it is a tankless water heater, then you won't have a bypass line.
hedge
Explorer
Oct 04, 2015
you could very well just have two valves. I had that exact scenario in my truck camper. The valves I had weren't just on/off but they changed the direction of the flow. pretty common with a Flair-it valve.

My current one only has 1 valve on the cold line because it has a 1 way valve on the hot.
tnrv_er
Explorer II
Oct 04, 2015
I'm gonna take a photo of the tank and post it. This is whats confusing me. My Jayco had a different system in it,although I never winterized it be cause I sold it.
Bigbird65
Explorer
Oct 04, 2015
tnrv'er wrote:
Dr.quick & Hohenwald
Yes I have the by-pass line but no valve on the by-pass line. I only have 2 valves one on the cold line and one on the hot line

If this is true you are not looking at the right line. If a bypass line did not have a valve then water would never go through the hot water tank. You do get hot water don't you?
Bigbird65
Explorer
Oct 04, 2015
Let me see if I can clarify things concerning the water heater. If you have a tankless water heater there is nothing for you to do. There is no bypass valve. If your water heater has a tank then you need to open the bottom tank plug on the outside of the trailer and open the pop off valve at the top of the tank. This will drain the water heater. On the inside of the trailer close the bottom and top tank valves. Open the bypass valve. This allows the pink stuff to flow through the hot water system without going through the tank. In the spring flush the system with clear water then close the bypass and open the supply and outlet valves to the hot water tank.
tnrv_er
Explorer II
Oct 04, 2015
Dr.quick & Hohenwald
Yes I have the by-pass line but no valve on the by-pass line. I only have 2 valves one on the cold line and one on the hot line
hohenwald48
Explorer
Oct 04, 2015
The purpose of the WH bypass is to allow water to flow around the WH so you don't have to use 5-6 gallons of antifreeze to fill the WH. If you have the valves at the WH you probably have the bypass already. It's just a matter of figuring out the proper valve positions to bypass the WH.

google "rv water heater bypass diagram" for several examples of
differing installations.

Looks like you got everything else right. Don't forget to run antifreeze thru any sink sprayers you might have.