Forum Discussion
VehicleTrader94
Sep 18, 2020Explorer
After 6+ months of study, research and tossing various ideas around before I started ordering items in May 2020 I am in the final stages of finishing up the project. I want to give a big thanks to everyone who replied.
I plan to do a more thorough writeup when I'm not pressing to get finished and on the road to Yellowstone next week.
I went with 3 Renogy panels suggested by Adamis. I could have done four but it would make waling on the roof for maintenance to be too crowded for my liking. I opted for the thin flat ones. Some suggested the life may be lower. I took that information into consideration when building my mounting system to allow for easy swap out of panels. I also considered if they fail in 3-5 years technology will likely have advanced enough that buying upgraded ones will make sense. I also considered the comments on lack of cooling for panels stuck directly on the roof. I have corrugated plastic under them to allow for cooling.
I used the VHB 3M tape that Parralax123 and others have suggested.
For the converter I went with a Boondocker 1260CL. Several sources including Battle Born highly recommended this. It charges at 60amps max.
I went with two Battle Born 100a Lithiums. Based on ToddB and other comments on charge rates I decided to do both of them now. I also kept the charge rate more reasonable. I'm not 100% I got this right. If it blows up I'll let you know!
Trimetric 2030RV and solar controller are being used.
We pulled a lot of old wires out and a lot of heavier gauge new ones in.
In the process we corrected some WTF wiring appearing to be from the factory. Someone decided a circuit breaker needed to be hidden under the sink when there was a open breaker available in the original converter box. On the 2000 Bigfoot 10.6B the dinette is at the front left, converter in the step up to bunk and sink on the right. The stereo is above the dinette seat in the wall to the bunk. Less that 3' away was the converter where the stereo could have been wired to and fused. They ran it past that, under the fridge to under the sink where an extra 3 blade fuse block was. Why? To make life difficult for the guy who blew a fuse some day? That was all integrated together.
The solar wires went down the refrigerator shaft as it seems most do.
Thanks again for everyone's advice and comments. More to come.
I plan to do a more thorough writeup when I'm not pressing to get finished and on the road to Yellowstone next week.
I went with 3 Renogy panels suggested by Adamis. I could have done four but it would make waling on the roof for maintenance to be too crowded for my liking. I opted for the thin flat ones. Some suggested the life may be lower. I took that information into consideration when building my mounting system to allow for easy swap out of panels. I also considered if they fail in 3-5 years technology will likely have advanced enough that buying upgraded ones will make sense. I also considered the comments on lack of cooling for panels stuck directly on the roof. I have corrugated plastic under them to allow for cooling.
I used the VHB 3M tape that Parralax123 and others have suggested.
For the converter I went with a Boondocker 1260CL. Several sources including Battle Born highly recommended this. It charges at 60amps max.
I went with two Battle Born 100a Lithiums. Based on ToddB and other comments on charge rates I decided to do both of them now. I also kept the charge rate more reasonable. I'm not 100% I got this right. If it blows up I'll let you know!
Trimetric 2030RV and solar controller are being used.
We pulled a lot of old wires out and a lot of heavier gauge new ones in.
In the process we corrected some WTF wiring appearing to be from the factory. Someone decided a circuit breaker needed to be hidden under the sink when there was a open breaker available in the original converter box. On the 2000 Bigfoot 10.6B the dinette is at the front left, converter in the step up to bunk and sink on the right. The stereo is above the dinette seat in the wall to the bunk. Less that 3' away was the converter where the stereo could have been wired to and fused. They ran it past that, under the fridge to under the sink where an extra 3 blade fuse block was. Why? To make life difficult for the guy who blew a fuse some day? That was all integrated together.
The solar wires went down the refrigerator shaft as it seems most do.
Thanks again for everyone's advice and comments. More to come.
About Travel Trailer Group
44,029 PostsLatest Activity: Jan 28, 2025