2005 2WD 2500 Ram Crew Cab HD SLT SB Automatic Cummins

It will easily handle a 12k GVWR 5er

That 5.9L CUMMINS is great motor
Rear Diff 3:73 gearing
Trucks RAWR is 6010#
Truck rear tires are 3195#/each at 80 psi

With only 9000# GVWR you will easily exceed that rating
But stay under/at RAWR and you will be just fine
(Folks are going to flame me....but GVWR is for MFG Class Rating/Warranty and Registration purposes....NOT a 'Legal' issue. Axle/tire ratings are)

GVWR 12K 5vr with a wet pin of 2650# (22%) would be a good match for truck


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"(Folks are going to flame me....but GVWR is for MFG Class Rating/Warranty and Registration purposes....NOT a 'Legal' issue. Axle/tire ratings are)"

YES! Licensing and Insurance purposes. Rear tires will be the limiting factor.

Same with my 15 RAM DRW 14k GVWR. I am at well over 15K on the 6 tires but loading the rear axle to it's SAE RAWR and adding NOTHING to my front I am at 15K. It's smoke and mirrors. I am licensed to carry what ever weight I am with SD licensing.

I have the same truck except 2004.5 and a dually. I tow a 10k# fifth wheel and it does fine. The numbers I have limit the truck to about a 13,000# fifth wheel. The engine is capable enough but has a tendency to generate high exhaust gas temperatures on grades which is my limiter, not power. The transmission isn't perfect and I find my sweet spot for towing to be 62-65 mph in OD. Tow haul for any grade work. An exhaust brake is a must have. My original window sticker showed the axle ratio (3.73) if yours is still available. My truck weighs around 7,200# empty GCWR is 21,000#.

I am pleased with our truck and feel it makes a nice combo with our trailer. I have owned it for 5 years and it has always delivered us without drama or incident. I would have no problem hooking it up right now and head across country.

Thanks for the replies so far. I have more question about towing, and maybe some modification (if possible) but 'first' what sort of 5th wheel should we be looking at that will safely and easily meet my towing abilities. We're not looking for a monster 5th wheeler. Just looking for some suggestions on 'specific brands/models etc., so we can check Craigslist, visit a few dealers and narrow down our options. Who knows we may got another route and buy a Class C or something.

Thanks for your time ...

Can't help with what sort of 5ver. Anything under 12-14000lbs is a good match though in general.
Couple things about the truck, if it's in good shape and you're planning on keeping it for a long time.
1. Ditch the OE 17" wheels. You can find OE 18" or 20" takeoff wheels and tires cheap and they will have more available tore capacity and choices.
2. Stock 3rd gems leave a little to be desired in the power department when towing gets heavy. With a stock trans you can do a mild tow tune that won't destroy the trans. 30-40hp and 60-80 ft lbs bump in power. If you are serious about making th ole 05 a real towing beast then a built trans is in order and you can bump up 100hp or more easily.
3. Exhaust brakes are worth the $ IMO. I'd doo this first before any other mods.
4. The above 3 mods are the only things you would need to do to make that truck hang with a brnad new one up and down the Mountain. But you're looking at about $7k min to accomplish that. 3k or so for the exh brake, programmer and some new wheelz would get you mostly there except in the power department. The rest of the truck is already built to handle whatever you can throw at it.

Last thing, how many miles, how many miles on injectors, and do you have additional fuel filtration? That is the most important thing to look into IMO on 3rd gens.
A lot of owners, myself included only get 100-150k on OE injectors without additional fuel filter. OE filter is not up to par. 2micron add on kit is $200 if you buy one manufactured, or about $50-100 if you make one. Either is worth it....today.

Truck has about 140K on it nowadays. Never had any power mods. Only mods would be a aluminum Mag-Hytech differential cover, the Mag-Hytec 727 double deep transmission pan and air intake filter. I was going to put a Pacbrake on it but never did.

Grit dog wrote:
Can't help with what sort of 5ver. Anything under 12-14000lbs is a good match though in general.
Couple things about the truck, if it's in good shape and you're planning on keeping it for a long time.
1. Ditch the OE 17" wheels. You can find OE 18" or 20" takeoff wheels and tires cheap and they will have more available tore capacity and choices.
2. Stock 3rd gems leave a little to be desired in the power department when towing gets heavy. With a stock trans you can do a mild tow tune that won't destroy the trans. 30-40hp and 60-80 ft lbs bump in power. If you are serious about making th ole 05 a real towing beast then a built trans is in order and you can bump up 100hp or more easily.
3. Exhaust brakes are worth the $ IMO. I'd doo this first before any other mods.
4. The above 3 mods are the only things you would need to do to make that truck hang with a brnad new one up and down the Mountain. But you're looking at about $7k min to accomplish that. 3k or so for the exh brake, programmer and some new wheelz would get you mostly there except in the power department. The rest of the truck is already built to handle whatever you can throw at it.

Last thing, how many miles, how many miles on injectors, and do you have additional fuel filtration? That is the most important thing to look into IMO on 3rd gens.
A lot of owners, myself included only get 100-150k on OE injectors without additional fuel filter. OE filter is not up to par. 2micron add on kit is $200 if you buy one manufactured, or about $50-100 if you make one. Either is worth it....today.

I own a 2004.5 Ram Cummins. I would agree with most of these suggestions, except -- there is no need to switch from OEM 17" to 18" or 20" wheels. And in fact, switching to the taller wheels will likely raise the height of your truck, which in general is not helpful when trying to tow a fifth wheel level. The rear axle rating on these trucks is 6000 lbs. Michelin tires on the stock rims have a weight rating of right at 6400 lbs, so if one were to switch to 18" or 20" wheels as suggested, there would be no gain in payload capacity whatsoever.

You could switch wheels for cosmetic reasons if you like, but there is no performance gain to it. I switched to 17" 4th Generation 2500/3500 Ram wheels, for both the appearance and the slight weight savings with the newer OEM alloy wheels as opposed to the 3rd Gen Ram steel wheels. I stuck with the stock size Michelin tires.

I also had the transmission built. I haven't put a tuner on the truck yet, but I have the option now of adding a mild tune... I'm the second owner of my truck -- I was very fortunate in that the original owner added a PacBrake. I highly recommend installing an aftermarket exhaust brake for towing... I will be installing an additional fuel (and water) filtration kit shortly -- that is an excellent upgrade... I have 153,500 miles on my truck, still on original injectors.

Good luck. They are great trucks!

Rear axle is good for 10klbs, not 6klbs despite what dodge says. Of course springs, tires and wheels aren't, but....
With 3195 lbs being the best you can do for a 17" tire, I'd say they leave a lot on the table compared to 18s or 20s. And with a 2wd, if bed height is an issue, the 5ver may have flat tires!

Grit dog wrote:
Rear axle is good for 10klbs, not 6klbs despite what dodge says. Of course springs, tires and wheels aren't, but....
With 3195 lbs being the best you can do for a 17" tire, I'd say they leave a lot on the table compared to 18s or 20s. And with a 2wd, if bed height is an issue, the 5ver may have flat tires!

How do I figure this all out then? Buying another truck isn't in the overall plan. I also don't want to pull anything longer than 30' (meaning a 5th wheel). I also don't want to be on the border-line of a safety issue.