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TednWV's avatar
TednWV
Explorer
Sep 10, 2014

2009 Dutchmen Aerolite Cub 185

Hi! I'm new to the forums and this is my first post.

My wife and I are new to camping and we already have a 2003 Dodge Durango so...I knew I couldn't tow a lot with it. I started looking at the hybrids. I found one I liked about an hour or so away. They gave me a great deal on it. (or so I thought) I got a 2009 Dutchmen Aerolite Cub 185.

I'm going to cut straight to my problem. First...this RV dealer sells used campers "as is". I kick myself in the a** now for knowing that before hand! After I get it home and started cleaning it up the way I wanted it cleaned, inside and out, I noticed this thing has leaked before! All along both bed ends near the bottom when it's folded up. Well...the wood is very, very soft anyway.

I wish I would have done my homework on them before I purchased this. I read on all kinds of forums the Cub's are known to leak. So...now, I'm stuck with this thing! We have went camping in it already. I like it. But it still bothers me it's not "perfect" like I want it. I want to tear into the bunk ends once I put it away for winter. Does anyone have exploded views or pics from restoring the bunk ends on these Cubs? I'd like to know what I'm getting into before tearing into it. I like having a plan. I have searched the forums looking for anything related to my hybrid but, no luck!

Can anyone tell me where the water goes when you fold up the bed ends when they're wet? Is that how these things are rotting on that bottom edge?

Like I said...I'd love to find anything on my hybrid. Modifications, tips, upgrades...anything!

Thanks for your help!
  • PAThwacker's avatar
    PAThwacker
    Explorer
    Sep 10, 2014
    Operator error causes major leaks. Leave a tag or any portion of tent against the seal and it will leak. Gravity rots the bottom of tent door first. Our unit has a wicking heavy duty canvas bridging the piano hinge. Any water gets drawn to it and then to mattress and inner tent walls.
  • scrand's avatar
    scrand
    Explorer
    Sep 14, 2014
    So - we bought an Aerolite Cub 160 new in 2008. We've now replaced both bunk doors at a cost of about $1500 each. The originals are crap. I've seen another model the exact same as ours and both ends are also de-laminating. When it happened the first time I tried to fix and restore it (back bed). Unfortunately I didn't have the work space to really work on it so after taking it off and ripping it apart as much as I could I caved and ordered a new one. I can tell you the new ones are made a hell of a lot better than the original. I did everything I could to avoid having the same problem with the front bunk. Didn't matter - I caulked and recaulked and still it rotted. The biggest problem is that that it is not sealed properly when it was constructed and the plywood used is a very thin mahogany luan plywood that acts like a sponge when any water gets in - and it will. now I'm torn between getting rid of it while the bunks are in good shape or stretch it out and try to get my money back by using it for a few more years. I took lots of pictures while taking the door apart and I would prefer to email them to you directly but if i can't and you really want them I will see what I can do. Check out Bill Patterson's series on Youtubeof him replacing the door - you might learn something and it might encourage you - good luck
  • TednWV's avatar
    TednWV
    Explorer
    Sep 16, 2014
    scrand wrote:
    So - we bought an Aerolite Cub 160 new in 2008. We've now replaced both bunk doors at a cost of about $1500 each. The originals are crap. I've seen another model the exact same as ours and both ends are also de-laminating. When it happened the first time I tried to fix and restore it (back bed). Unfortunately I didn't have the work space to really work on it so after taking it off and ripping it apart as much as I could I caved and ordered a new one. I can tell you the new ones are made a hell of a lot better than the original. I did everything I could to avoid having the same problem with the front bunk. Didn't matter - I caulked and recaulked and still it rotted. The biggest problem is that that it is not sealed properly when it was constructed and the plywood used is a very thin mahogany luan plywood that acts like a sponge when any water gets in - and it will. now I'm torn between getting rid of it while the bunks are in good shape or stretch it out and try to get my money back by using it for a few more years. I took lots of pictures while taking the door apart and I would prefer to email them to you directly but if i can't and you really want them I will see what I can do. Check out Bill Patterson's series on Youtubeof him replacing the door - you might learn something and it might encourage you - good luck



    Thanks for the link to that video! WOW! A lot of work. I think I can do it myself but winter is fast approaching and I don't have the time to dedicated to it right now. I don't have a big enough garage either to work in. Maybe I'll have to wait til spring and tackle this one?

    I was told by the RV dealer I bought this off of, the bunk ends are no longer available. ?? So...you can order the bunk ends? If you can, wouldn't it just leak again?
  • scrand's avatar
    scrand
    Explorer
    Sep 17, 2014
    Ted - I would suggest you talk to another dealer - one that deals with Dutchmen trailers - Mineral Wells WV or Columbus OH - because my dealer said that she got them from the manufacturer without any problem. I know that the doors that I have now are made better and are sealed better than the originals. My problem with my own rebuild was going to be shelter (I had none) and the ability to put enough pressure on the whole door while the glue set. One thing I would recommend if you do it yourself is add another aluminum cross piece - I can't believe they don't have better support in the door. One other thing - where the water has gotten in and the luan has delaminated it will be easy to separate but where water has not gotten in it will be a pain in the butt to remove from the frame - again good luck
  • scrand's avatar
    scrand
    Explorer
    Sep 17, 2014
    Ted - those were Dutchmen dealers - they might help - but here is an Aerolite dealer nearest you -

    CECIL CAUDILL TLR SALES INC.
    6679 GALLIA PIKE
    FRANKLIN FURNACE, OH 45629
    (740) 574-0704 (phone)
    (740) 574-6548 (fax)
    Website: n/a
    Email: caudillr@sciotowireless.net
    Distance: 82.19 miles
  • TednWV's avatar
    TednWV
    Explorer
    Sep 17, 2014
    scrand wrote:
    Ted - I would suggest you talk to another dealer - one that deals with Dutchmen trailers - Mineral Wells WV or Columbus OH - because my dealer said that she got them from the manufacturer without any problem. I know that the doors that I have now are made better and are sealed better than the originals. My problem with my own rebuild was going to be shelter (I had none) and the ability to put enough pressure on the whole door while the glue set. One thing I would recommend if you do it yourself is add another aluminum cross piece - I can't believe they don't have better support in the door. One other thing - where the water has gotten in and the luan has delaminated it will be easy to separate but where water has not gotten in it will be a pain in the butt to remove from the frame - again good luck


    I have been out to the one in Mineral Wells. The guy is border line rude. He says he doesn't deal with Dutchmen anymore because of there reputation for poor craftmanship. I have sent an email to the one in Franklin Furnace. Probably a couple weeks ago now. No reply. Guess I will have to call them when I get a chance.

    Thanks! You guys are a lot of help. I appreciate this forum.

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