2009 Subaru Outback PZEV - Hauling Options
Hello RV'rs! I'm new to all this and am considering a folding trailer (tenting has proven to be a challenge with our 3 and 4 year olds). I would need to pull whatever I end up buying with my 200...
Forum Discussion
First, hello and welcome to RV.net.
In everything I looked at, the 2,700 towing capacity seems to require no other equipment to be added to the Outback to reach that capacity than to ensure brakes are installed on the trailer and to obviously have a brake controller installed in the vehicle. If it is an automatic, consider a transmission cooler.
Can your Outback tow the PUP in question? Probably so. But you will have to be very, very lean on what you add into it as the options and even what looks to be from the factory will drastically add up in the weight department.
Water is 8.3 pounds per gallon x number of gallons, if you're carrying. That ship weight does not include 40+ pounds of battery, does not include LP tanks and if equipped, does not include air conditioner (100+ pounds). Then, you add a few items and gear and all of the sudden, you're beyond the capacity of your tow vehicle. It's not a magic number that rings an alarm or lights up a caution light. It can happen quite easily.
If it were me, I would tend towards the lower end of the weight spectrum if you're going to stay with the Outback. Again, I do think it will tow the PUP if you are judicious in what you load (including the contents of the tow vehicle itself - that has to be included in the calculations). I do think you'll be searching for power when encountering slight inclines and really wishing you had more power when facing real inclines. At least that was my experience with tow vehicles that were actually rated for 3,500 pounds and the PUP was only 1,700 pounds dry.
For my comfort level, I have a tow vehicle that doubles what the GVWR of the PUP is. My recommendation is to always be above, and well above if possible, the GVWR of the trailer.
Knowing what I know now, I would not do it. However, I understand the desire to get something and be out camping. When towing, you have to slow down well in advance of what you are used to and drive very defensively. Keep a lot of space between you and the guy ahead of you. Where the trailer brakes really come into play is the emergency stop: when something cuts right in front of you and you will hit it if you don't stop short. People who don't tow anything think all of that space in front of you is an open invitation to dart in front of you then slow down or stop quickly in front of you.
Anyway, a little more back on task...I would encourage you to get something that is within your tow vehicle's tow rating. Europe has some great cars and similar models to what's available in North America. You see some nice sedans pulling some fairly big and heavy travel trailers. I know the U.S. and Canada have slightly differing regulations as to what a given model can pull but even so, I've driven some vehicles that outclassed their towable but sure did struggle mightily to have enough power and keep the load under control.
In everything I looked at, the 2,700 towing capacity seems to require no other equipment to be added to the Outback to reach that capacity than to ensure brakes are installed on the trailer and to obviously have a brake controller installed in the vehicle. If it is an automatic, consider a transmission cooler.
Can your Outback tow the PUP in question? Probably so. But you will have to be very, very lean on what you add into it as the options and even what looks to be from the factory will drastically add up in the weight department.
Water is 8.3 pounds per gallon x number of gallons, if you're carrying. That ship weight does not include 40+ pounds of battery, does not include LP tanks and if equipped, does not include air conditioner (100+ pounds). Then, you add a few items and gear and all of the sudden, you're beyond the capacity of your tow vehicle. It's not a magic number that rings an alarm or lights up a caution light. It can happen quite easily.
If it were me, I would tend towards the lower end of the weight spectrum if you're going to stay with the Outback. Again, I do think it will tow the PUP if you are judicious in what you load (including the contents of the tow vehicle itself - that has to be included in the calculations). I do think you'll be searching for power when encountering slight inclines and really wishing you had more power when facing real inclines. At least that was my experience with tow vehicles that were actually rated for 3,500 pounds and the PUP was only 1,700 pounds dry.
For my comfort level, I have a tow vehicle that doubles what the GVWR of the PUP is. My recommendation is to always be above, and well above if possible, the GVWR of the trailer.
Knowing what I know now, I would not do it. However, I understand the desire to get something and be out camping. When towing, you have to slow down well in advance of what you are used to and drive very defensively. Keep a lot of space between you and the guy ahead of you. Where the trailer brakes really come into play is the emergency stop: when something cuts right in front of you and you will hit it if you don't stop short. People who don't tow anything think all of that space in front of you is an open invitation to dart in front of you then slow down or stop quickly in front of you.
Anyway, a little more back on task...I would encourage you to get something that is within your tow vehicle's tow rating. Europe has some great cars and similar models to what's available in North America. You see some nice sedans pulling some fairly big and heavy travel trailers. I know the U.S. and Canada have slightly differing regulations as to what a given model can pull but even so, I've driven some vehicles that outclassed their towable but sure did struggle mightily to have enough power and keep the load under control.
