2010 Chevy 1500 Towing

It's a lot more than just the transmission. From my research, the jump from the 1500 to the 2500 is frame strength, as well as drivetrain and suspension. The 1500 is going to get pushed around, and I know from experience. I'm getting ready to trade in mine for a 2500 HD.

bikendan wrote:
the OP posted the same question on the Towing forum.
now he's started the same thread here.

not sure why he needs to have two separate discussions on the same question.:h

maybe didn't like the answers he was getting over there.

Or it's maybe because he's new and wasn't sure the difference between the two sections. Let's welcome a fellow RVer and be helpful instead of critical where he posts.

the OP posted the same question on the Towing forum.
now he's started the same thread here.

not sure why he needs to have two separate discussions on the same question.:h

maybe didn't like the answers he was getting over there.

Your payload should not be that much less with a 3.08 vs a 3.42 but your rear end is what is pushing your tow rating to where it is. If you changed out the rear end to a 3.42 your tow rating would increase to 9,600 if you had the HD cooling package.

With a 6,000 lb trailer you may be pushing your payload to include you, your family, fur friends and all the other goodies.

All in all the rear end is affecting you the greatest at this point.

As downtheroad says, payload (for occupants, fuel, hitch, junk, and trailer tongue weight) will be your downfall. Search the forum and read - this has been asked and answered many times. The way to determine what you can get by with is to load the truck up with everything and everybody (including the WD hitch components) and head for the nearest CAT scales. Weigh front and rear axles separately (the CAT scales are set up for this) and you'll also get a total weight. Subtract the total weight from the GVWR on the door sticker. This will be your remaining payload. Subtract the rear axle weight from the GVWRR and you'll have the remaining capacity for the rear axle. Next, take the GVWR (gross loaded weight maximum) for the trailer you are considering - NOT THE DRY WEIGHT listed by the manufacturer. That will be the safer number to use for total trailer weight. Calculate 12% of the trailer's GVWR for tongue weight to see what you would likely be putting on the hitch. If all the numbers come in within the ratings, you'll be OK. You don't have much to work with towing with a loaded 1/2 ton, though.

Rob

If the trailer weights you are quoting are "dry" weights, my opinion is that you might be in trouble...

Add about 500-1000 lbs to the dry numbers for a trailer that is loaded and trip ready..

But more important that tow rating is the PAYLOAD rating of your Chevy.
Good luck with it. Hopefully others will post with a more positive outlook for you.