2014 Truck Camper Building From Scratch

davesteve wrote:
Part 13

http://youtu.be/9roKXC6PvS4

looking good!
Is that foam covered with one or two layers of Fiberglas?

Any idea how much weight will this support if you needed to walk on it,to place solar panels and such..

I was thinking about doing complete camper using this type of glass over foam if it was strong enough as it would be also incredibly light compared to anything else..

Part 13

http://youtu.be/9roKXC6PvS4

I have used the system three cold cure and the silver tip epoxy and both have very minimal smell. If you don't use a respirator it's fine. You wont get a headache, sore eyes or that feeling of toxic dread you get with most epoxy products. I could not see a pic of your camper on your profile. It was blank when I viewed it.

Part 12
http://youtu.be/WXah_v7MDA8

davesteve wrote:

free radical wrote:
Interesting build,
I've build my camper from plywood and Cold cure epoxy also,three coats on top and sides plus couple coats of marine enamel..sanding all that epoxy before painting was the fun part,,destroyed one sander completely..

I've solved the problem of wasted space between the wheel wells by making hinged doors on both sides about foot long that open,to store stuff in there..made the floor and bottom part from 3/4 exterior plywood and top from 1/4 inch

Would be nice if GM. Made some kind of storage boxes in those outer fenders,accessible from outside,there sure is plenty of room..

For glue may I suggest construction polyurethane adhesive PL that comes in tubes used with caulking gun,sticks to anything and works especialy well when using overhead..
Also if you don't have already use a good quality respirator when mixing epoxy,that stuff gives off very dangerous fumes!!
Good luck

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Not planning on doing hardly any sanding (one of the goals). That can be avoided with textured finishes and epoxy coating/painting within certain specified times. Hate the sanding!
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I've considered cutting into the bed sides, but ruled that out for now. Warranty and all that.
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I like the Titebond glue. Completely waterproof (type 3), no smell, easy clean up and makes a joint so strong, that the piece of wood will break first.
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System Three epoxy requires NO ventilator/masks etc. Same with their paint. That's the best thing about their stuff and why I use it.

Could you tell me which system three epoxy are you using,that has no smell,,I sure would like to use that next time I'm building something..
Thnx
Btw I didn't cut the sides of the truck bed,,LOL..
Only the campers lower part ,it's made of 3/4 inch plywood as are the small access opening doors so I can store some stuff in that place which is normally not accessible on most TCs..

There's a pic of my creation in my profile,if you're interested,
I made it from 3/4 ply lower part and 1/2 inch ply top and sides coated with Cold Cure epoxy and painted w marine enamel

Capt Eddie wrote:
You do have more to fiberglass before you are finished, right? Why did you put such a rough texture on the finish? In a matter of weeks left outdoors, the dirt will grow mold and mildew that will not be able to wash off. Even with paint covering the texture. Why did you not finish the front or down the side of the outside storage? What is the dark exposed area between the side and front of the camper? Is the pop up going to be hard sided or soft sided? I had planned to do a full size hard sided camper as you are doing here. But the for cost of all the material and equipment made it cheaper to just buy a Lance 1040. So I am following this as I would how been doing it myself. I see the decisions you are making and asking myself what would I do different. Are you going to do the top the same way?

Work In Progress, lots more to do. A textured surface (in this case)is much cheaper, faster, easier to maintain and IMO more attractive . If you go smooth, you will be spending much more on materials and even more importantly, increasing man hours by a large amount(sanding). Like you say, if it ends up costing more than a commercial version, why bother.

I'm expecting the skin to be completely washable. No mold. Final coat will be this product, http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/WR-LPU-Topcoat-c29.htm

Just started working on the roof. It will be a very light weight, one-piece fiber glassed polystyrene, with a soft side pop-up fabric, sewn up by a local specialty business.
Good questions. Thanks

You do have more to fiberglass before you are finished, right? Why did you put such a rough texture on the finish? In a matter of weeks left outdoors, the dirt will grow mold and mildew that will not be able to wash off. Even with paint covering the texture. Why did you not finish the front or down the side of the outside storage? What is the dark exposed area between the side and front of the camper? Is the pop up going to be hard sided or soft sided? I had planned to do a full size hard sided camper as you are doing here. But the for cost of all the material and equipment made it cheaper to just buy a Lance 1040. So I am following this as I would how been doing it myself. I see the decisions you are making and asking myself what would I do different. Are you going to do the top the same way?

Part 11
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ik4SFU-7R5Y

Capt Eddie wrote:
I believe that the rear door opening should have been totally framed in, This would have tied the sidewalls together. With at least two continues headers. Any scabbing of the two end walls will weaken the wood that is there. It is to thin to have more nail, staple or screws put through it. The weigh of the roof is going to spread the two end walls. Here would be a place to use the 1/4 x 6 flat aluminum to strengthen the back and side walls. I am not trying to over criticize the project. Along with the problems that I see. I hope to also bring you a solution for the problems that I see.

No problem. Good observation. The back is really the most experimental (and risky) part of the whole thing and the part that I always had the biggest problem with on most truck campers. I heard a commercial maker say that it was impossible to make a full size door, because of the exact reasons you mention. I guess I saw that as a challenge and said to myself, "I'll build one with a DOUBLE FULL SIZE back door!"
So, one of us will be wrong. Hopefully not me;). I have a plan, but still making modifications.
I'll check out the one you mention. Thanks

bka0721 wrote:

davesteve wrote:
Thanks for the comments. Negative, positive or instructive. I enjoy them all.:)

It good to have you here, someone that is willing to be constructive and thick skinned, compared to some that seem to pop in and then disappear.

b

Thanks

Dome wrote:
Are you going to have to jack the camper up high enough to slide over the wheel wells and then drop it in? Or is it going to just slide in like normal campers?

Yea. Probably will more of a "drop in" than a slide in.