Forum Discussion
59 Replies
GoPackGo wrote:
Turtle n Peeps wrote:
Chevy/GM would not warranty the turbo so I paid $3500 for a replacement and install costs. Thanks Chevy.
Glad you're happy with your Ford but why should GM (or any manufacture for that matter) pay for something that was over the warrantee period? :h
(better hope you don't have a CP4 failure or you're going to be happy with Ford too.) :B
I'll tell you why.
I did not pay a $6-7,000 premium for a motor that would have a major mechanical problem 5000 miles outside of the warranty period - and not be covered. I expected some consideration. I even wrote a letter to Chevy detailing how I had been buying new Chevys for the last 20+ years. No response.
I realize mechanical parts can fail so it's what happens after that's important.
I traded my Honda Element with 185,000 miles on it when I got the new Ford. The Honda was running perfectly, just like it always had. Never a problem. No out of pocket costs except for normal wear and tear (tires, etc).
Shouldn't I expect at least the same service from a $50,000 truck (2002 cost) as a $24,000 4 cylinder commuter car ?
And if I have problems with this truck, as you allude, then it will be Dodge/Ram's turn.
Tim
That depends. What are doing with each one? You can't compare the two. That would be like comparing my Truck or Trans Am to the Equinox. They live very different lives.Turtle n Peeps wrote:
Chevy/GM would not warranty the turbo so I paid $3500 for a replacement and install costs. Thanks Chevy.
Glad you're happy with your Ford but why should GM (or any manufacture for that matter) pay for something that was over the warrantee period? :h
(better hope you don't have a CP4 failure or you're going to be happy with Ford too.) :B
I'll tell you why.
I did not pay a $6-7,000 premium for a motor that would have a major mechanical problem 5000 miles outside of the warranty period - and not be covered. I expected some consideration. I even wrote a letter to Chevy detailing how I had been buying new Chevys for the last 20+ years. No response.
I realize mechanical parts can fail so it's what happens after that's important.
I traded my Honda Element with 185,000 miles on it when I got the new Ford. The Honda was running perfectly, just like it always had. Never a problem. No out of pocket costs except for normal wear and tear (tires, etc).
Shouldn't I expect at least the same service from a $50,000 truck (2002 cost) as a $24,000 4 cylinder commuter car ?
And if I have problems with this truck, as you allude, then it will be Dodge/Ram's turn.
Tim- More Mechanical Mayhem
The best part is at about 1:45, when a Chevy diesel pickup does a spot-on dragon impression, complete with black smoke, fire and a long black tongue out of the front grill! - Runaway diesels are entertaining.....when it's not your truck :D
- Your sig is funny. Years ago I towed a 16 Airstream with a one ton Suburban 454 because that's what I drove. I also towed a big boat. Put up with it too.
- Never seen it in person but my uncle had a payloader that ran away. They got it shut down by stuffing rags in the air intake, but the damage was done.
Just like what's been said previously, the turbo seal let loose, causing oil to spray into the turbo compressor, where it was atomized by the blades and became "fuel" for the engine.
Cutting off the fuel to the engine is a waste of time, because it is using the engine oil as fuel. You need to cut off the AIR.
Remember diesels run at WOT all the time. RPM is controlled by the amount of fuel injected into the cylinder by the injectors. Provide a diesel with unlimited fuel and it will run at unlimited RPM. - I worked on armored personnel carriers (M113A2's) with the Detroit Diesel 6V53 engines and we would occasionally get a rebuilt engine with the rack adjusted incorrectly that would run away. We always left the air cleaner off and had a wood clipboard near by when we started a rebuild for the first time...placing the clipboard over the intake usually shut the run away down.
- We own 8 diesel vehicles and tractors and I have never heard of it.
Fast Mopar wrote:
rhagfo wrote:
The only way to stop a run away is to remove the air supply, either by blocking the air supply, or displacing the oxygen with CO2 or Halon.
This is correct, but if you asked the average diesel pickup owner about this, they would probably have no idea what you are talking about.
Yeah, I have never heard of a 'run-away.' If my diesel ever did that, I wouldn't have had the slightest idea what to do!
Lots of videos on Youtube about it, though!
