Forum Discussion

macminn's avatar
macminn
Explorer
Jun 08, 2017

2015 Suburban

The towing capacity of my suburban says 6,000 lbs. Is there a magic formula I should stay under as far as trailer? I've been told to stay around 5,000. We really like one that's 5,400.
  • Your weight is likely the dry weight of the trailer, so you'll need to add some weight for gear, water, propane, etc. you'll likely be north of 6k pounds.

    The real issue with Burbs is the payload capacity, or lack of. Payload is all passengers and gear the Burb can carry, including the tongue weight of the trailer.

    So let's assume you can carry 1,500 pounds (payload). Now let's assume the trailer weighs in at 6k, and the tongue weight is around 12% of that. So that's 720 pounds taken away from your 1500 pounds of available payload. This leaves you around 800 pounds for people and gear, which can get used up quickly.

    So check your yellow sticker on the drivers side door jamb and verify your payload.

    Good luck.
  • If you'll accept the opinion of the owner of your little brother, your towing capacity is 8,400 while mine is 8,600. Not what you say. Your payload capacity is less than my Tahoe's 1,595. Wet...i.e...loaded I am just short of 5,000...and happy on the steepest Sierra Nevada passes...up and DOWN. If you are dry at 5,400 you'll be wet and loaded at 7,000+...and overloaded and unhappy....unsafe.

    Your little brother says NO! Need more truck.
  • 6000 pound tow rating seems like your Suburban does not have the HD towing package, or it would be about 8000 pounds. If you plan to tow any high walled RV, you need a heavy duty transmission cooler. The aerodynamic drag will cause the transmission unlock the torque converter and shift frequently, which is causes more heat than non-towing or towing low walled trailers. Do you know

    6000 pound tow rating is tied to a total trailer + vehicle weight including 1 or 2 occupants. If you have 800 pounds of people an cargo, then the trailer rating will drop by 500 pounds. If you want to stay under all ratings, you will want to stay under 5000 pounds, maybe 4500 pounds dry rating.
  • SouthpawHD,

    Thank you for the explanation, I think I'm finally starting to understand this a bit more!

    An additional question that comes up is how do I figure out tongue weight? Is 12% what I use, or is there another source to get that.

    My yellow sticker says 1,578 lbs payload. Another trailer we're looking at is 4942 lbs. Will do the math on that as well.

    Thanks again!
  • Glad it helps. I learned this the LONG way, and thankfully it didn't cost a lot as I got lucky.

    12% of the total weight is the standard tongue weight that most travel trailers usually try to achieve when towing. Obviously it can take a bit of time and effort to achieve that with proper loading of the trailer, amount of water loaded on the trailer, placement of propane tank, and the weight distribution hitch. So you could more or less, and you'll need to plan accordingly.

    If that new trailer is 5,500 pounds ready for camping (some water, food, gear), you'll be about 700 pounds on the tongue, + 100 pounds for weight distribution hitch, +100 pounds for propane and battery, leaving you around 700 pounds for passengers...Pack carefully, plan ahead, and it looks as though it should work.

    Please keep in mind that I am only estimating those weights.
  • Always check the GVW of the trailers you are looking at. Dry weight listings for trailers are usually a lot lighter than they really are, as every additional option adds weight. Look for a trailer that has a GVW of 6,000 lbs. or less.
  • Yes, there is a "magic formula" and it is:


    GCWR >=

    actual weights of

    TV + Trailer + stuff



    But...gotta decide if you believe in your OEM's rating/specification system or not....and are willing to both go out and actually weigh your TV/Trailer/Stuff or use their max ratings as the basis to do the simple math

    Actual tongue weight is VERY subjective. Even if taking two setups with the exact same TV & trailer. Folks load up differently and even the folks weigh in differently...the why of the formula above and weighing everything (or knowing their actual weights...or using the max weight ratings...GVWR of both TV & trailer, etc)

    Also, above assumes stock. If you have modified, then your re-engineering must take that into account...luck that most OEMs have such a high margin designed in today, that many can overload and not notice...they just reduced their setups performance and longevity

    You will also need to know your OEMs (both TV and Trailer) ratings:
    GVWR
    GAWR (front and rear)
    GCWR
    MTWR (max trailer weight rating) is only applicable if you own a curb or stripper model, one 150LB driver and pretty much nothing else loaded onto/into the TV
    Diff ratio, but with today's close ratio (more gears) and Tow/Haul button, generally a moot discussion



    macminn wrote:
    The towing capacity of my suburban says 6,000 lbs. Is there a magic formula I should stay under as far as trailer? I've been told to stay around 5,000. We really like one that's 5,400.
  • I have had two older Suburbans. I have lost transmission on each towing a TT that was under the "rated weight". The Suburban was OK on flat land but the mountains of east TN and east PA (I40 and I84) did in the transmissions.