2016 Tundra Double Cab SR5

Have a 2009 Tundra that is much like what you are looking for and tow a 7200 loaded trailer. Have towed all over Ontario and all the way to Florida numerous times. The Tundra will tow the trailer just fine. I also use the Draw-Tite dual cam setup with 800 lb bars and works great. My Tundra has the small gas tank but the 2016 you can get with I believe a 36 gallon tank now. I would make sure I got the large tank. I also average between 8 - 9.5 mpg. Great match if you ask me as I am very happy with my combo.

IdaD wrote:
If I were buying a half ton to tow with, I'd almost certainly end up in a 3.5 Ecoboost. The low end grunt can't be beat in that class and the 36 gallon tank is a great feature, as are the towing mirrors. I've got a friend who's had a couple of them and they perform really well with the caveat that they aren't very fuel efficient, but that's where the 36 gallon tank comes into play.

This would be my choice as well. The Ecoboost is a great tower. If you get the max tow, you get the best mirrors available, the 3.73 gears, the best IBC available, and an extra 500 lbs of payload. The Eco will get good mileage not towing, so great grocery getter for the Mrs. too.

Compare, buy what you like!

Jerry

thomasmnile wrote:
Otrfun: Thanks for relating your experience. As mentioned we had a fifth wheel and will not be going down that road again. We simplified our RV looking to do the same with the TV. My wife finds the 3500 just too big and is not comfortable driving it. Then there's the nickel and dime Ram issues we have experienced that I don't want to mess with any longer.

I hear ya. Everybody's situation, wants, and needs, are unique.

Have you considered taking your loaded, vacation-ready, 27DSRL to a CAT scale to nail down some definitive numbers? Your tongue weight may be surprisingly lower . . . or higher, than your 975 lb. "assumption". Having that definitive number might make your final decision a lot easier . . . or harder, as the case may be.

Good luck!

Otrfun: Thanks for relating your experience. As mentioned we had a fifth wheel and will not be going down that road again. We simplified our RV looking to do the same with the TV. My wife finds the 3500 just too big and is not comfortable driving it. Then there's the nickel and dime Ram issues we have experienced that I don't want to mess with any longer.

We towed a ~6700-7000 lb. (loaded) toy hauler with ~1000 lbs. of tonque weight (plus 400 lbs. of passengers and gear) with a '12 Tundra double cab 5.7 2WD during several cross-country trips. FWIW, these numbers are CAT scaled--not guess-timations based on empty/GVWR factory numbers.

Don't believe the drivetrain (engine, tranny, etc.), frame, or suspension has changed on the 2014-2016 Tundras vs. the 2007-2013's (exception minor tuning to the rack & pinion and shocks). Door jam sticker payload rating for the above truck was 1460 lbs. I'd check the door jam sticker on a similarly equipped 2016 on the lot before putting much faith in the salesman's estimate of 1680 lbs.

Anywhoser, the 5.7 has more than enough power to handle 7 percent grades at 60 MPH. May have to downshift to 4th (~3k RPM), sometimes 3rd (~4k RPM's). Not a problem unless the sound bothers you. This is a 32 valve DOHC engine, so it does loves to rev.

Fuel economy was approx. 9.5 MPG at 55 MPH. Dropped down to 8.5 MPG at 60-65 MPH.

As for payload, that's another story. With 1400 lbs. of payload (tongue weight, passengers, and gear) and properly adjusted 1000 lb. WDH, it would go down a smooth road just fine. However, throw in some rough expansion joints like the ones they have on I10 in Louisiana, well things went from fine to jarring. You could feel the rubber axle stop contacting the frame on every bump. Not much suspension travel remaining when these trucks get close to their max payload. The Tundra's rear suspension has approx. 3 1/2" of travel when empty. This drops to approx. 1" when loaded to maximum payload.

Funny, you're thinking about downsizing. I just traded in my '12 Tundra for a new Ram 3500 just because of the payload issue. Yes, the Tundra "handled it", but I got tired of living on the edge. Plus, we have plans to get a larger toy hauler. It gets tiresome having your future choices limited because of tongue weight. Would much rather concentrate on living comfort, features, etc.

If I were buying a half ton to tow with, I'd almost certainly end up in a 3.5 Ecoboost. The low end grunt can't be beat in that class and the 36 gallon tank is a great feature, as are the towing mirrors. I've got a friend who's had a couple of them and they perform really well with the caveat that they aren't very fuel efficient, but that's where the 36 gallon tank comes into play.

I have been towing for 2 years a 30ft Cougar 5th wheel weighing (have weighted it) 9600 lbs with a 2011 Tundra reg cab long box 5.7. No problem with power towing and fuel mileage not bad it I stay around 60 mph. Very stable tow vehicle with 5th. Good you have the dual cam hitch it really helps as I used to have a 4runner and trailer and the dual cam made it much better than reg non sway hitch. I get as high as 11 mpg under ideal conditions and seldom dip much lower as I adjust my speed to wind and hills etc. Do not feel I am straining truck at all but in my case I am over payload when fully loaded if I have water in my holding tanks and much in basement. Had a heavier 5th wheel before and it handled it fine, I just don't like being overweight. We tow from Alberta, Canada to Arizona every year (where I am now) and all over BC rocky mountains in summer. You will be fine as long as not over payload, that is the problem, not power.

I tow a 34' TT which is normally in the 7300LB range also with the Reese DC but with 1200lbs trunnion bars. Handles well and plenty of pulling power but MPG is anywhere from 9 to 12. My 2008 Tundra specs out the same as the one your looking at. Because of all the talk about how sensitive the Reese set up is I did add air bags to return my truck to its original height after I load it up but before I hitch up.