2018 flagstaff superlite has condensation on walls

I have had campers for along time and this is my first fiberglass sided camper, when it sweats i can see where it collects where the frame work is in the walls wherw thete is no insulation

Rodney j callahan wrote:
Thanks for all the information on condensation in camper,will invest in dehumidifer that can run on generator

Is this your first time owning a camper? How cold is the area you are in? In the mid-atlantic we get serious condensation in the spring and fall.

Rodney j callahan wrote:
Thanks for all the information on condensation in camper,will invest in dehumidifer that can run on generator

Probably a wise decision although expensive one.

The odd thing is I have to run a humidifier of a winter in Kansas and a dehumidifier if I winter in Florida.

Thanks for all the information on condensation in camper,will invest in dehumidifer that can run on generator

As the temperature difference between indoor and outdoor air increases, so too does the dehumidifying effect of ventilation.

Let's assume the OP had electricity for say 6 hrs/day. running a compressor driven dehumidifier for that length of time will likely solve the condensation problem. It may take a few days but should help a great deal. Mine will often pull 2.5 gallons out of the air in 6-8 hours. Once it gets the humidity down to the 50% range or so, it pulls out about 2-3 gallons/day.

Long term use in other than a very dry climate IMHO pretty much means measures to prevent moisture buildup. In moderate humidity climates, opening windows, fans on etc. when cooking, showering may be enough. But when humidity rises outside and/or it gets cold at night, that is often not enough and a compressor driven dehumidifier is appropriate.

IMHO the peltier devices or damp rid type are fine for storage, but can't pull near enough moisture out when trailer is in use.

delwhjr wrote:
Check out the Eva-dry renewable dehumidifier. This is a renewable item which will dehumidify and then you can restore it to work again. It does not use electricity to remove but uses a little to renew. There are different sizes for large and small spaces.

+1 on this product. Works better than a typical dehumidifier.

Check out the Eva-dry renewable dehumidifier. This is a renewable item which will dehumidify and then you can restore it to work again. It does not use electricity to remove but uses a little to renew. There are different sizes for large and small spaces.

You can open the rv vents and windows for ventilation or get electric power and a dehumidifier or move to a drier climate.

Things inside a TT that produce water vapor.

Exhaling - the human body expels water vapor while breathing. You can produce a quart or more of water vapor just while you sleep. So figure one person can produce 3 or more quarts per day.

Cooking - moisture boiled off while cooking either in the oven or the burners on top of the stove. Propane combustion also gives off water vapor as a byproduct of combustion. All microwaves are vented at the top rear of the cabinet. Although they are usually mounted over the stove hood in trailers they are never vented by the stove exhaust fan. The microwave exhaust usually winds up coming out of the grill at the front top of the cabinet enclosure the microwave sits in.

Propane heaters - Mr Buddy, Wave 3, etc all will add to the humidity level due to combustion.

Showering - hot water and cool air means more humidity.

I normally kept both roof hatches cracked about an inch. When it was too breezy or cold and I had to close the front hatch I ran a 25 pint per day whirlpool humidifier set at 40 percent humidity. That was suitable for me and one Chihuahua in my 28-1/2 footer.