JJBIRISH wrote:
“With the load bars attached the hitch head moves up (pivots on the lower bolt) and the top bolt slides forward. When I remove the hitch bars the hitch head drops again.”
No matter how you cut it or gloss over it this is not a correctly set up hitch or a failing hitch and its definitely time for a new one…
“It actually really shows that the bars are working.”
Unless I am missing something it shows nothing about how well the bars are working… that would be determined by how well they lift weight off the ball and transfer it to the front axle of the TV…
If 400 to 600bars are near perfect, how do you expect 800 to 1000 pound bars will do???
I already know that the hitch head needs replacement or repair, however I don't agree that it causes a problem during towing. If I needed to tow without the bars... then there is a major problem as the head drops and the trailer is no longer riding level.
My reference to nearly perfect is the final position of the trailer (level without nose up or down) and where the bars sit (parallel to the trailer frame). As per most trailer dealers, they went with the 4370 advertised weight of the trailer to convince me that my SUV could tow the load. Actual loaded weight is 6006 lbs and tongue weight is over 750 lbs. They supplied the original hitch and bars.
If I put more tension on the bars, two things happen...
1) Bars bend way too far, too much stress, no longer parallel to the trailer frame
2) Truck rear sag does go back upwards, and nose of trailer goes high.
If I run the bars with too much tension, then I would need to set the hitch head to a different position and would need to have the working set-bolt for the required angle.
Since over-stressing the bars is NOT a good long term solution, I am getting the new bars this Saturday. Since they come with a new hitch head, I will be able to set it up again.
My current hitch head is set correctly for my current bars, but they don't allow enough weight transfer.