2wd vs 4wd
Hi all...time to open another can of worms...we r going to purchase a 2015 2500 denali duramax crew...just don't see the need for 4wd...how abt some non male ego driven opinions on the subject. ..thx....
Forum Discussion
One of the worst advice (Grit) I've read in a while here...unless he has full time 4x4
Take your regular (non-full time) 4x4 out to a dry asphalt parking lot
with room to do this.
Put it into 4x4 (non-full time and hope you understand what that means) and
if you do have full time 4x4, then put it into 'lock'
Turn the steering wheel all the way to one side. Makes no difference
which way...just all the way to one side's bump stop.
Hold it on that bump stop and run it in circles...all the while holding
it against the bump stop
WARNING...years ago had a similar issue with someone and warned them
that this will break something in their drive train. That guy came
back a few days later yelling that he'll sue me for breaking his truck
A lot depends on the traction/tires you have. If OEM...most likely
they will just skid with no Crow Hop. If good tires and over sized...
they *WILL* Crow Hop and break something
OR if lucky, the drive train will just bind up and not move with a low
throttle...give it more and it will Crow Hop and break things
All why they invented "full time 4x4"...for folks who don't understand
how 4x4 works and use it on good traction conditions....PS...I did have
a NP203 on my 1973 K5 Blazer...sold the FJ40 'cuz fiancee didn't know
HOW2 shift a manual and wanted an automatic...removed the full time
and converted that to part time after 1 year. It was her daily...
Here is a thread on this:
4wd characteristics, page 7 of 10
To the OP...if you have to ask, don't get it...you'll know when you
need/want it...
Take your regular (non-full time) 4x4 out to a dry asphalt parking lot
with room to do this.
Put it into 4x4 (non-full time and hope you understand what that means) and
if you do have full time 4x4, then put it into 'lock'
Turn the steering wheel all the way to one side. Makes no difference
which way...just all the way to one side's bump stop.
Hold it on that bump stop and run it in circles...all the while holding
it against the bump stop
WARNING...years ago had a similar issue with someone and warned them
that this will break something in their drive train. That guy came
back a few days later yelling that he'll sue me for breaking his truck
A lot depends on the traction/tires you have. If OEM...most likely
they will just skid with no Crow Hop. If good tires and over sized...
they *WILL* Crow Hop and break something
OR if lucky, the drive train will just bind up and not move with a low
throttle...give it more and it will Crow Hop and break things
All why they invented "full time 4x4"...for folks who don't understand
how 4x4 works and use it on good traction conditions....PS...I did have
a NP203 on my 1973 K5 Blazer...sold the FJ40 'cuz fiancee didn't know
HOW2 shift a manual and wanted an automatic...removed the full time
and converted that to part time after 1 year. It was her daily...
You are WARNED
Here is a thread on this:
4wd characteristics, page 7 of 10
To the OP...if you have to ask, don't get it...you'll know when you
need/want it...
brulaz wrote:Grit dog wrote:
...
You're completely misinformed on most accounts here. The last 4wd transfer case that didn't act well on dry pavement in 4wd was the NP 205 in early 80s pickups. Maybe some jeeps for a few years after that. Any new or newer 4wd can be driven as far as you want in 4 wdh on dry roads, however unnecessary.
...
My 2009 Tacoma 4x4 could not. You could feel the heat and smell the stink if you mistakenly left it on for a short while on dry hard roads.
And according to Ford F150 manual: "4WD should not be operated on dry pavement; driveline damage may occur."
The higher end F150s have a "Full-time 4x4" or AWD that can be left on all the time.
