5.9 Cummins Diesel Towing capacity

KD4UPL wrote:
I wouldn't worry too much about the towing capacity. I'd be more concerned about payload, tire, wheel, and axle ratings, and if you'll need some heavier springs or air bags. The extra 1,000 pounds isn't really a big deal.
I would want the manual transmission in that truck. Dodge automatics were not the best and you'd only have 4 gears anyway.

Yeah....my Dodge transmission was still going strong when I sold it (250,000+ miles)...They are junk. LOL. Routine maintenance is the key. I serviced my transmission every 50,000 miles. Full flush.

azdryheat wrote:
Yeah, get a newer truck with a higher towing capacity.

Always so helpful....that will totally solve the problem.








But will it create “another” problem??

Durb wrote:
My year 5.9 showed the gross combined would be increased by 2,000# with the 4.10 0ver the 3.73.

That year used 3:54 and 4:10 gears.

I switched to 4:10's on my 2001, 4X2. The OP says his is a 4X2 so it is a cost effective way of getting more towing capacity when you only have to pay for one set of gears.

The limiting factor is the auto transmission. Manual transmission models have higher tow ratings with both ratios. The OP says he has a beefed up tranny so he should be good for more weight than stock anyway.

My year 5.9 showed the gross combined would be increased by 2,000# with the 4.10 0ver the 3.73.

This is all very helpful. Thanks so much for your input and sure would love more comments if there is more I need to know.

If you're happy with the performance at 12,000, you won't notice much of a difference at 14,000 unless the new trailer has a lot more frontal area, or is less aerodynamic.

Assuming a 5th wheel travel trailer, as long as the pin weight doesn't overload the rear tires, and all the brakes work, fix the cooling problem and hit the road.

The 5.9 has no problem pulling a house off its foundation, the overheating isn't a motor issue. My dually has the 5.9 and is rated for 18,000 lbs. The overheating issue is from another weak link in the system, not the motor.

While checking the puke bottle is a good idea, mine has never proven to be a problem. No oil mist on the radiator, or gunked up puke bottle. But it is something to be checked.

billy1davis wrote:
it is a 2001
5.9 diesel
Dually
not 4x4
I had the tranny rebuilt with very heavy duty inards. He said better than the original and an extra cooler
Also has been chipped,
I never have had the the radiator flushed or the fluids changed
So I was pulling a 12000+ 5vr and it did find on the level but climbing a steep pass like a 2 lane and it got real hot so I pulled over 3 times to let it cool.
If it hadn;t heated up I could have pulled over that pass and others without any trouble.

You should pull the radiator out and clean it. The puke bottle covers it in oil mist which the fan distributes onto the rad which collects dust and plugs it up.

"The issue with the 2001 is the puke bottle getting gunk on the back side of the radiator."

So true! The one owner 01 Sport I bought two Summers ago had the radiator very plugged from the vapors coming out of the bottle. I removed radiator and had it cleaned inside and out and cleaned the engine compartment of all oil residue. I relocated a PEAK recovery bottle to the inside drivers side of the front bumper.