6.7L CAC hose rupture..beware!

NOTE! Not trying to start a brand war of who's truck is better! Just pointing out a potential problem here!
I am posting to let you guys that have 6.7L Fords know of a problem that can leave you on the side of the road, but it is a VERY EASY fix that takes less than 5 minutes. The CAC(Cold side intake pipe) hose that comes from just inside the driver's side battery up to the throttle body can be prone to failure. A new CAC hose can be bought for around $100 shipped from the net. This CAC hose will rupture under high boost situations and the engine loses all boost pressure and you coast to the side of the road. The hose is plastic and will weaken after many heat cycles of the engine and the end at the throttle body will come apart. I carried a spare hose as a friend's left him on the side of the road just outside NYC during rush hour traffic.(because of his, i bought a spare) Mine let go weekend before last on I-85 just NE of ATL running 65mph with 22K miles on the truck. If you carry a spare, you only need a 3/8" ratchet, 10" extension and a 7/16" deep well socket and a pair of leather gloves to make the swap. The gloves are for the heat. Loosen the 7/16" spring clamp on the bottom of the hose at the charge air cooler(down beside driver's side battery) and slide the hose off. Then pull the large round spring clip from the other end at throttle body. Even when destroyed, this clip should still there. Pull off any remaining parts and wipe off the throttle body inlet to get the oil off of it. Disconnect the boost gauge wires on the side of the tube with it's quick connect. Then reverse the procedure on the install. If you have a new pipe, the throttle body end just clicks into place. You can actually be back on the road in less than 10 minutes.
IF you want to upgrade to get away from the plastic connection, both AFE and H&S Motorsports have pipes aluminum/stainless pipes that will alleviate this problem.
H&S Motorsports
AFE CAC Tube
Yep, they are expensive, but they also DO NOT require programming and bolt on to stock trucks. Thankfully, I had a spare intake tube after my friend's incident as I didn't want to be stranded somewhere with a problem I can fix in 5-10 minutes. It was a 94* day when mine let loose with my family and pets in the truck. I've just ordered the H&S for mine.
Just posted so 6.7L Ford owners will know of a potential failure that could leave them stranded.

Tow Vehicles

taken
Explorer II
Aug 27, 2018
There is no upper clamp on the Ford 6.7 OE hose where the failure happens. It's a slip collar with a snap ring.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Aug 27, 2018
Turbo hose clamps are to be tightened as part of your maintenance no matter the brand.

As far as being in KOMIFORNIA, simply have the desired part mailed to someone outside that State and mail to you and install it. Very unlikely anyone is going to notice it during an inspection.
RedRocket204
Explorer
Aug 27, 2018
taken wrote:
There have been a few threads about this issue on FTE. I think mine might have been the first.

Cold Side Tube Thread

Yes indeed. "Lucky you"??? ;)

A big thank you to you and the others who forged the way for many to hopefully avoid the pipe blowout issue. I don't tow nearly as heavy as many of you but am towing mountain grades all the time when towing my fairly heavy TT with 850lbs ATV in the bed. Just thought gong with an aftermarket pipe was good insurance even though it took me a year to get around to getting it installed.

Quick Cliff's Notes on an aftermarket install from those FTE threads:

Small screwdriver to pop the clip up.
If your kit didn't come with the o-ring, you'll need to reuse it from the OEM pipe.
Do not dry fit the aftermarket pipe expecting to install it that way. Instead, start at both sides installing and meet in the middle with the aluminum 90 degree pipe.
Use Windex to help fit the pipes together when installing, makes a huge difference.
If you need to disassemble a clamp to get it on there after the pipe section was installed, you can use something like channel locks to hold it together while you get the spring, washer and nut on.
When installing the sensor, make sure the retaining tab is situated correctly so when you rotate the sensor 90 degrees, the tab goes over the ramp and then settles in, locked in place.
Give yourself up to two hours to complete the job however, easy to complete in an hour or just over.
mowermech
Explorer
Aug 27, 2018
I had a similar occurrence years ago, driving a Dodge Ram 3500 CTD, towing a 32 foot fiver, on I-15 along the Virgin River where the freeway cuts through a corner of Arizona. The flex boot on the bottom of the intercooler slipped out of the clamp and blew off. I put it back (nothing was torn or broken), tightened the clamp, and a couple hundred miles later it happened again.
After the third time, I took the clamp, straightened it out on a block of wood, and dimpled it with a center punch so the inside surface looked sorta like a cheese grater. After that, it never slipped again.
Then, a couple years ago, I bought a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD, equipped with a boost gauge. It never showed more than 10 PSI. I thought the gauge was bad, because the engine ran just fine. One day, while checking something else, I found that the same clamp I had trouble with on the '94 was loose, but the connector hadn't blown off. I reinstalled and tightened the clamp, and the boost gauge showed normal pressure. In fact, it showed over pressure. Some previous owner had disconnected the waste gate actuator feed hose, and plugged the port!
As much as I like to pick on Fords, when it comes to boost pipes they aren't the only ones with problems!
taken
Explorer II
Aug 27, 2018
Dave5143 wrote:
Forgive my ignorance of all things turbo but is the CAC pipe the same as an intercooler pipe? I see what appears to be the H&S silcone pipe upgrade on Amazon and it looks like the OEM part referenced earlier.

As RedRocket said, it is indeed the cold side intercooler tube. There have been a few threads about this issue on FTE. I think mine might have been the first.

Cold Side Tube Thread

Mishimoto, H&S, Rudy's, and AFE all make replacement tubes. On the 11-16 trucks, the difference between brands is some need the PS res spaced over and some don't require that. (I see H&S now offers two styles for this gen.) Either way, it's an easy install. I'm not sure if all 4 brands make them for the 17+ trucks yet but that one is an even easier install. Ford actually redesigned the pipe on the 17+ trucks but let the plastic collar that slips over the intake inlet untouched so the potential for blowing them on a 17+ is the same as the previous gen...
taken
Explorer II
Aug 27, 2018
mrw8i wrote:
taken wrote:
mrw8i, it's a 10 minute swap. Run the H&S for 2 years and swap it out for each inspection to potentially save your turbo.

I see H&S has two versions, an aluminum with two silicone connectors and 3 clamps and now an all silicone pipe with 2 clamps. Which are you using? I'm leaning towards the all silicone for ease of installation.

For a while there was only the single one piece silicone kit for the 17+ and the 11-16 needed the old style kit. It would appear that they now have the 17+ style for the 11-16 too so yes, I would recommend going that route. It's even easier to install and doesn't appear to require the PS res relocate bracket like the older style kit did.
RedRocket204
Explorer
Aug 27, 2018
Dave5143 wrote:
Forgive my ignorance of all things turbo but is the CAC pipe the same as an intercooler pipe? I see what appears to be the H&S silcone pipe upgrade on Amazon and it looks like the OEM part referenced earlier.

It's the cold side intercooler pipe - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1492371-popped-the-hot-side-intercooler-tube.html

Thread says hot side as the title but if you read in a few posts it is corrected.

Coincidentally, I replaced mine yesterday with a Rudy's version aftermarket pipe I bought a year ago but never go around to replacing it until yesterday. Fairly easy replacement and all the info you need is in the FTE thread.
Dave5143
Explorer
Aug 27, 2018
Forgive my ignorance of all things turbo but is the CAC pipe the same as an intercooler pipe? I see what appears to be the H&S silcone pipe upgrade on Amazon and it looks like the OEM part referenced earlier.
mrw8i
Explorer
Aug 27, 2018
taken wrote:
mrw8i, it's a 10 minute swap. Run the H&S for 2 years and swap it out for each inspection to potentially save your turbo.

I see H&S has two versions, an aluminum with two silicone connectors and 3 clamps and now an all silicone pipe with 2 clamps. Which are you using? I'm leaning towards the all silicone for ease of installation.
taken
Explorer II
Aug 27, 2018
mrw8i, it's a 10 minute swap. Run the H&S for 2 years and swap it out for each inspection to potentially save your turbo.